On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 22:41:38 +0100, Derek ^ wrote
(in article ):

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 21:33:38 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 19:38:40 +0100, Derek ^ wrote
(in article ):

On 24 Jun 2006 06:54:37 -0700, wrote:


Why not make your own for a fraction the cost, self-delivered today,
better designed and longer lived.


Hmm, I need a new shed.

The shiplap boarding on my 7x6 pent shed has shrunk and gaps have
appeared between the planks. The roofing felt was replaced by a proper
joiner 18 months ago and he just nailed it down with galvanised clout
nails. The felt has pulled away from these leaving circular holes, the
rain has got in and wet all my stuff including nasty garden chemicals.

It was stood on fenceposts laid down as bearers, but these are rotten
now. Lifting the shed off them to replace them might strain the shed
fatally.

Do you reckon It's worth attempting a DIY re-furb ?

A replacement from Argos is £298.00. Quality unknown.

DG


From the symptoms, I would dump it. It's throwing good money after bad.

There is quite a range of difference in quality between sheds in terms of
the
quality of timber and the frame construction.

If the Argos ones are anything like those in B&Q etc. (and they probably
are)
then they are flimsy rubbish built to a price point.

The best solution would be to make one. This can be accomplished very
easily and speeded up considerably with a chop saw and some kind of nailer.

Second best solution would be to find a place that manufactures them
locally
and have a look. Generally, these are of better quality.

To avoid the problems that you have had with the current shed, I would
suggest a number of measures.

- Use a concrete base or at the least lay some concrete paving slabs for
the
bearers or conceivably bed them on dug channels filled with gravel.

- Use good quality pressure treated fence posts as bearers. Typical DIY
store ones are dipped only. If you cut them, dip the ends in a spirit
based preservative for at least 24 hrs.

- Use strips of DPC material below and above the bearers to prevent
migration
of water.

- Treat the shed with a good quality spirit based preservative such as
Cuprinol. The water based ones are generally useless and impart a colour
like a kids paint box making the whole project look like ****e.

- For the roof, don't use cheap shed felt. For an extra £15 or so, you
can
get heavy duty felt which will last considerably longer.

- With correct laying and folding you can minimise exposed roofing nails.

- USing a bitumen based sealer under the felt will reduce or prevent any
water ingress.


You can do some of these things to a purchased shed of course and improve
it.


Thanks very much for taking the time to reply.

You're very welcome.


I think for the moment I'll waterproof the roof with 2 layers of
Visqueen, which will give me time to thin out the contents of the
shed.

You could do that. Another option is to just paint over the worst bits with
some sealer or use the sealer to stick down the Visqueen.



Between now and next Spring I'll work towards building a shed which
fits the exact space I have available.

One thing that you can do is to build it in section panels much as a
commercial one is.

I needed to use this approach some years ago for a long thin shed to fit into
a 1m gap. It's 5m long.

I made two floor sections and located them in place first. There is a
removable section of floor panel covering the join which can be removed to
gain access to the timber frames below. The sections could then be butted
together and bolted.

The wall sections were constructed similarly and treated with Sadolin on the
outside. The end wall was installed first followed by the sides. This
could all be achieved from inside the shed.

Finally the roof frame went on followed by boards.

I also insulated below the floor and in the walls. The shed remains dry and
reasonably warm all the year round.




The existing shed is on (treated) bearers on decorative flags. ISTM
more isolation from the ground is indicated. I will incorporate that.


That is key. Another one is not to extend the solid base too far out from
the walls - maybe 50mm or so. Try to have earth or some other surface where
possible. This reduces rain bouncing up and under the timbers.






DG