If it really is tar (creosote) based, solvents at room temp will take
forever. Heat it up with a torch and scrape what you can with a putty knife
or razor blade. While still warm use a gasoline or napthalene soaked rag to
wipe up as much as you can. In the end, some stain is bound to remain but
you should be able to get up the gunk so that you can paint over it.
Denatured Ethynol was a good try but you may have better luck with Methynol
though I do think you need a petrolium based product in the end.
Overheating of the xformer would have liquified the creosote and allowed the
leakage. You should be able to discern if it is creosote or epoxy or
plastic based by the smell of it burning.
You might even be able to carbonize it by burning then it can be removed by
abrasive and soapy means.
I had to depot a transformer once for failure analysis. We boiled in in a
organic solvent (industrial solvent) for days and it still was not very
clean but enough to start unwinding it.
Products from
http://www.dynaloy.com/Products/othe..._products.html
Dynasolve; take your pick of formulations for Epoxy, silicones, rubbers and
plastics. These are fairly selective solvents and reasonably safe to use
but they can be expensive. Might call them for advice on your material
disaster.
Also don't forget the favorites
TCE, Tolulene, MEK, napthalene (lighter fluid) etc.
"No" wrote in message ...
Pete C. wrote:
No wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
No wrote:
Hello - I have a leaking ballast from an 8' 96T12 fluorescent fixture.
Its an old fixture and an old ballast. 99% sure its not the PCB type.
PCB leaks are more viscous than the tar leak I have (From what I have
read) So lets not go down the PCB rat hole.
The tar dripped out over about a day or so with out being noticed. The
tar dripped onto a concrete garage floor. I would like to clean it up.
What I have tried so far with almost no success.
Dawn
Cascade
Texas Magic
OxyClean
WD-40
Denatured alcohol
Regular unleaded gasoline
K1 Kerosene
All of these were tried with a stainless steel bristled brush.
Probably
best was the gas and kero but I still have not made a noticeable dent.
Any suggestions?
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If the ballast is not specifically labeled "No PCBs" that it in all
probability contains PCBs. The "No PCBs" labeling has been required by
law in the US since PCBs were banned. The EPA web site should have the
appropriate references for the labeling laws.
Pete C.
The label has come off this ballast. Also, before PCBs were know to be
an issue (1970s) no ballast was marked either way (Why would they?).
Also, the PCBs were mostly used in high output type fixtures, these are
not that. PCBs were in the more expensive fixtures, these were certainly
not those. PCBs look like a clear or light colored oil when leaking.
Mine is leaking a dark black tar.
So - Lets get back out the rat hole. It is very unlikely that PCBs are
involved here.
Any suggestions on cleaning the tar?
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Auto bug and tar remover? MEK? Acetone? Mineral spirits? Other solvents?
Pete C.
Auto bug and tar remover? I have that, will try, unfortunately its not
that great at removing bugs so we'll see.
MEK? Main ingredient in many paint strippers. I may have some, I'll
check.
Acetone? I have that, may try it.
Mineral spirits? I'm all out, thats what I looked for before the gas and
kero.
Other solvents? or live with it.
Thanks
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