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BobK207
 
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Default Hanging sheetrock - horizontal or vertical


Paul Franklin wrote:
On Tue, 20 Jun 2006 13:27:09 GMT, 46erjoe
wrote:

I've just finished framing out my basement to double our living
space. It's new construction with just a large poured rectangular
concrete floor between cinder block foundation walls.

The walls turn out to be just shy of 8' from floor to ceiling. I plan
to put in a suspended ceiling later so as to be able to get to all the
wiring/plumbing if necessary in the future.

My question is: Should I hang the sheet rock vertically or
horizontally? I've been careful to make sure that all the studs are
exactly 16" on center. I've heard that horizontally produces fewer
joints, but that also produces those nasty hard to hide 4' butt
joints. If I hung vertically, every joint would be flush.

Many of the walls are longer than 12', and since it's just me doing
the work, I don't think I have the strength to handle sheets that big.

I'm planning on doing the hanging and then bringing in a pro to do the
mudwork.

Related question: Should I hang the sheetrock a smidge - maybe a
half-inch off the (concrete) floor, just in case of water leakage?

Would horizontally hung sheetrock make for a stronger wall?

Any other tips?


A recent issue of the Journal of Light Construction (IIRC) showed a
novel way to deal with butt seams in drywall. (was for ceiling, but
would work just as well on walls). Instead of having the joint fall
over a joist (or stud) it was arranged to fall between joists. The
joint was backed up with a special board. The board looked to be
about a 1x6 as long as the joint. It had very slight ridges on each
edge. (looking at the end it would have a *very* shallow and wide U
shape.) When the two edges of the drywall were screwed to this board,
the slight depression in the center caused by the ridges would cause
the last couple of inches of the drywall to bend just enough to
provide a recessed area for the tape and mud. The pro writing the
article claimed this allowed him to product perfectly flat joints that
don't show even when viewed from a long angle.

It was a commercial product, but it would be pretty easy to make a
bunch with a table saw and dado blade.

FWIW,

Paul



Paul-

That was a good point. When install horizontal the sheet edges at mid
wall height are unsupported (unless blocks are installed).

Depending on how the room is used these unblocked seams can be broken
free it bumped with sufficient force.

I'd go vertical, if the basement ever flood one can always cut the
drywall off at flood height plus some extra.

cheers
Bob