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I Love Lucy
 
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Default To: bamboo and mm

Whew, that is too much trouble. So is bottom posting tonight. I'm
putting the back seat down, packing it in the trunk and taking it to the
hardware store if I can't get them out tomorrow. I'm pulling lots of
u-nails and nails from previous work. It's leaving some gouges, so
fussy me will have to fill the most conspicuous ones and sand.

I like the corner slat idea. There is a piece of wood about the size of
lath, well that size anyway, already patching or reinforcing the bottom.
Once I get that off, there may be something bad underneath and I'll have
to put it back on, but I think it's just a loose join and the diagonals
should take care of that.

At least I do have a miter box and miter saw. I need to get some kind
of screen for it at the hardware store anyway. Don't know if I want to
use it for a climbing rose or a clematis. I don't like chicken wire,
but that would probably work best unless I can find something a little
prettier. I wonder if you can get some large mesh screen on the
diagonal. What could I use for that that doesn't cost too much and
won't uglify it?

I have a staple gun and just need some staples and some paint.
Fortunately I do have a drill and some bits, will need some non-rusting
but rugged screws. These projects add up.

Thanks for the suggestions. I never would have thought of the diagonals
and they will not ruin the look of the door, plus I can put them on the
side that won't show, also will sand the wd40 spots lightly after I get
done with the other, will use alcohol.

The door is still surprisingly sturdy actually around the outside but I
will need to use good paint to keep it from rotting near the ground. I
also need to affix some stakes on the bottom and will have to figure out
something so it will stay perpendicular and may not keep it the first
place I put it. I suppose I could build a brace for it on the bottom at
the back.

Thanks. You've been a great help.


wrote in message
ups.com...
In wood you would either heat the screws with a soldering iron briefly
to free them, or you would core them out along with a plug of wood
using a tool made just for that.
Homedae ones can be made from tubing with a file to cut holesaw type
teeth.
I Love Lucy wrote:
I'm trying to convert an old Victorian screen door into a trellis.
The
hinge screws are rusted in, got one out and the other one is totally
stuck, three more to go on the other hinge. I sprayed it with WD40,
got
some on the wood, and am now worried that the primer coat won't bond
properly.

Is there any way I can treat it without buying another can of
something?

Also, how do carpenters get old rusted screws out? I am using the
right
size screwdriver. The hinges are really neat old things, but I
don't
want to leave them on. They are decorative and spring loaded on the
inside, but are just some metal, so I'd kind of like to get them off
without ruining them if I can, like if I have to somehow cut them, I
can
twist the screw out with a pair of pliers.