"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

"mc" wrote in message
.. .
Given that it's desirable to do repairs with the same type of solder as
was used originally, in order to avoid alloy mixing or partial melting
problems...

(1) How do I recognize lead-free solder when I see it?

(2) What temperature should I set my iron to, when working with SnSb or
SnAg solder?

Thanks!


It has been recommended by the creators of the half-arsed RoHS directive,
that manufacturers mark their boards with the alloy that has been used. To
date, I think I have probably seen about 2 or 3. In general, boards made
with lead-free, look as though every joint is bad ( and often, this is
pretty much the case !! ). Instead of the joints having a shiny
appearance, and being domed or meniscus-shaped, they are dull and grey,
decidedly 'crystalline' looking, and tend to be volcano-shaped, with
straight sides.

snip

Any chance the half-arsed RoHS directive was thought up by the stuck up gits
who pepper the countryside with 12bore lead shot?