Well, that explains a few things. Since the bowl is going to be oval,
are you going to turn some, and hand carve the rest? Co you have a set
up to turn oval?
In general, for air drying you figure one year per inch of thickness,
will get you down to the 12 to 15% mc. If you have hand carving to do,
do it while the wood has some moisture in it because it cuts so much
easier.
I hope you aren't offended, I am asking all the questions because I am
curious.
robo hippy
Dan Bollinger wrote:
Are you trying to dry it for lumber, or a turning blank? Has it been
drying for a while, and you are trying to find out how dry it is so you
can figure out what to do next with it? Is it a full log section? Is it
a half log section? Is it a milled chunk?

It's a turning blank! I wouldn't post off-topic. It dried in the log for 8
months and we slabbed it up into two pieces, removing the cant. It was not damp
to touch after cutting, but I know it can't be dry yet. I want to track the
drying before I begin turning. The reason for slabs (instead of squares) is
because these will be oval bowls.



I don't like to let chunks that size dry because it will crack and
check. Rough turning it helps the bowl blanks, and walnut dries with
little movement, and checking. For lumber, I would slab it up, unless
you want a big chunk to carve or whatever.
robo hippy
Dan Bollinger wrote:
You have 200 lb blanks? Is this a solid blank, or a hollowed out one?

A solid slab, in this case walnut.


robo hippy
Dan Bollinger wrote:
Hi Dan, I think Robo's answer was constructive, probably because it's my
opinion too. Anyway constructive or not, it's the the same opinion we
would have given if you had asked our opinions re a good pot metal bowl
gouge. IMHO there aren't any good ones for woodturners.

I'm pleased you have a method that works for you, Arch, and I was looking
for
specific information on another method.

However since many turners do find moisture meters useful, it would be
interesting to learn what meter they are using; how & why.

That was my thinking as well. I thought I could tap into the think-tank
at
alt.woodturning. I have provided answers to others and had no reason to
believe
that I wouldn't be reading about how good this model is, how this company
is
good for servicing, stay away from this type, etc. But not one such
comment
even after my clarification.

Given your
knowledge and ability, I suspect people's opinions here would really
have had little influence on your choice.

Maybe. But is that a reason to withhold information or change the
off-topic?

Which one did you choose? Why?

I bought the Wagner 220. It is an inductive type (not a pin-type). It is
adjustable for wood density and has an extended scale to 30%, which is
good,
since it will let me make that important first reading sooner. This
model
reads internally to 3/4" which is deeper than a pin model would, another
good
feature. Couldn't find one on eBay, so bought it at Amazon.com for $40 off
MSRP.
The wood I'm drying are slabs ranging from 3 x 10 x 36 inches to 6 x 20 x
60
inches.

Dan