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Eigenvector
 
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Default PEX... fittings really supposed to be that loose before crimping?


"Don Young" wrote in message
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"Eigenvector" wrote in message
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"Noozer" wrote in message
news:vmmgg.231701$P01.27163@pd7tw3no...

"Oren" wrote in message
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On Sat, 03 Jun 2006 12:36:05 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:

Will the metal crimp ring really tighten this up or am I missing
something?

Yes. When you get the crimper, ensure you get the "go - no go" tool
to check crimps.

Typical Home Despot... They didn't have a clue what the "go - no go"
gauge was, even after I explained how it was used. The rental desk
didn't have any and there were none on the shelf to be purchased.

Unfortunately, HD rents the crimper for $9/day. Anyplace else wants
$25/day.

Good luck..

I'll need it!

I've done a few crimps, they look good and are solid. I'm sure that all
will be well.

I just finished repairing a large section of galvanized with PEX and yes
the thing is rather loose before you crimp it. It really holds a good
amount of pressue when its crimped, but using that tool is a gigantic
pain in the ass, especially when you're in awkward positions.

I'm not totally sure what good the go/no-go gauge is, but so far I pass
the tests. Seems like it the no-go gauge should be larger than the go
guage, maybe they're testing to make sure the crimp isn't too tight?

The gages are to ensure that the crimped ring is neither too loose nor too
tight. To ensure that the outside of the crimped ring is between some 2
size limits, the no-go must be smaller than the go. If you were measuring
the inside diameter the no-go would be larger.
Don Young

I think of go/no-go gauges in terms of bolt action firearms - since I do
early war model restorations. There the Go gauge means the clearance from
the bolt face to the chamber is within factory tolerances, the no-go gauge
means it exceeds those specifications, and the field gauge means it exceeds
the military's specifications.