Thread: fillet knife blade's geometry?
View Single Post
  #20   Report Post  
Posted to rec.knives,rec.crafts.metalworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default fillet knife blade's geometry?
In rec.knives wrote:
I've had a fair amout of practice grinding HSS, in grinding tool
blanks into metal cutting tools for the mill or the lathe,, even
for a shaper or two,,but have yet to make any knives from it with
the exception of two 1 1/4 inch blade chip carving blades for a
woodworking friend back when I was in tech school, made those from
a parting tool for a metal lathe,, I just ground the blades, he
made his own handles,, and said it worked out great for him.

Cool.

I have an M42 HSS cutoff tool knife blade in the works.

....along with a thousand other things "in the works".

Let me know how this project turns out,, I've often thought HSS
would work out well for a lot of different kinds of blades,
(mostly while carving mild steel with my Schrade Uncle Henry Bear
Paw ) although I was leaning more to hunting knives,, caping and
skinning blades , just never took the time to give it a good try.
Nor the cost to get a new parting tool of sufficient size to make
a nice knife from.

All-hard power hacksaw blades are the way to go, IMO.

They are (unless it sez on it otherwise) M2 and the teeth are 64
to 65hrc. The "all hard" ones are that hard all the way to the
back. "for straight cuts" is the sales pitch.

As you know, HSS is the best stuff to be had for cutting stuff and
you might as well give it a try, if edge holding is what you want.

If you've compared an HSS hand hacksaw blade with a carbon steel
hand hacksaw blade, in edge holding, then you know what I'm talkin
about.

Cutting meat, it's even a bigger difference.

Too many old files laying around for easy access for blade blanks
I guess.

A file although better stuff than a carbon steel hacksaw blade is
still not the edge holder HSS is, even tho the full hard HSS at
~65hrc is not as hard as a file at 66+hrc.

Used to it was a major project to carefully grind down a good knife
blade from an all-hard power hacksaw blade but now it's not such a
big deal with a 4 or 4+1/2" hand grinder.

The trick is to be sure and get one of the "all hard" power hacksaw
blades.

David MacDonald has new ones at used
prices, out of production, CitCo brand from Canada.

Starrett RedStripes are still available at new prices.

If you get your hands on a used power hacksaw blade, use the corner
of an old file and file notches into the back, near the holes it
should be soft ~40hrc and everywhere else ~65hrc and relatively
unfilable.

Bear
BTW I noticed that fact about tapered tangs not helping the
cutting ability of a knife much too. only put it on one knife on
purpose,, and one to correct a wrap in heat treat that was all in
the tang,, but I did those the easy way,, with a surface grinder.

Yeah, and I actually spend as much time tappering the tang as hollow
grinding the blade. :/ Not a good pay off for just looks, IMO, but
still do it ever'once in a while anyway. Never said I was smart.

Where you at?

What would it cost to get a piece of annealed 1095, 16"x1"x.125"
surface ground down to ~.119 (~3mm) thick? Need it for pocket knife
blades.

O1 is avaiable in 3mm from MSC but the more I mess with that hi-Mn
stuff the less I like it. :/

Alvin in AZ
Reply With QuoteReply With Quote