In article ,
says...

"DougVL" wrote in message
...
I used several carbon steel blades, and bought half of a 100 ft. roll of
blade stock. Welded them up at work on a Do-All with built-in welder, but
it didn't work very well on stock that thin (0.025"). Then I got a Lenox
Bi-Metal blade from the J&L Industrial store, and 3 years later it's still
cutting very well.

Doug

The DoAll welder is not very easy to use. I, too use one, and you have to
work at getting proper welds, and even harder at annealing properly, but
once you get it figured out, you can produce outstanding welds. You just
have go through the learning curve, often for each type of blade stock.
They are not identical. I'm very pleased with mine and the results now
that I've gone through a few welds.


The biggest problem I had with my DoAll welder is the very
non-obvious adjustment for the weld current contacts, which
controls the timing of the weld current relative to the
movement of the blade clamps. If this is set too early
you're likely to blow holes in the weld rather than getting
a properly upset weld. On my saw, the adjustment is a hex
socket screw hidden inside a fiber insulator in the large
power contact assembly. With this adjusted properly it's
difficult to make a bad weld.

I do a double anneal. Once very lightly before moving the
blade from the welding position--just enough to make the
blade sturdy enough to remove from the clamps and grind the
weld. Then the blade goes into the stepped portion of the
jaws to be annealed to dark blue.

Ned Simmons