I've read all the answers to date . . . and here's a response from the
'Marine' side.

First, I really like the concept of an 'Adirondack' chair, unfortunately my
wife doesn't and our patio is unsuitably small. However, I am very familiar
with woods that are exposed to the elements for long periods of time.

The Redwood that is often seen is typically finished with a 'stain' that is
more akin to a paint. This is for protection from UV radiation. I am an
inveterate 'scrounger' in my quest to save money, so often 're-use for
another purpose' items that other people throw out. In one specific case it
was a pair of 'Redwood Picnic Benches' - with folding aluminum legs. They
were obviously several years old, and were given no maintenance at all. The
finish was mostly intact but really 'sunburnt'. Where the finish had flaked
off the wood was gray and either rotted out or 'punky' . . . as it was UNDER
a lot of the finish !!

YES - your painter DID mean 'Teak Oil'. I use it all the time . . . and not
just on Teak - I use a lot of Mahogany. Lets address that first. It is
really the easiest 'finish'. If on 'new' wood no real sanding is
*required* - just a light pass to remove any 'whiskers' or splinters. Then a
number of 'flooding' coats until the wood stops absorbing the oil. After
that maintenance is simple - 'clean & re-oil as necessary'. How often this
will be needed depends on YOUR environment. Since the wood is already
'aged' you have to determine if the 'graying is weathering or dirt. Wet it -
a brown look equals weather, black equals dirt. I would clean it either way.
Get some 'Teak Cleaner' {typically a granular powder that is sprinkled on -
oxalic acid being the principle ingredient} and a stiff brush. Wet,
sprinkle, scrub - ACROSS the grain or in a circular motion. Wait, then hose
off well - then hose off again while scrubbing. When it's thoroughly dry -
apply the oil as with 'new' wood. This finish will not be smooth, with the
grain & natural texture of the wood prominent.

'Smooth' finishes . . . do NOT even consider 'SPAR Varnish'. It will never
cure to a hard surface and will glue your butt to the chair in warm weather.
It is SUPPOSED to remain soft & flexible. The typical Poly has no UV
additives. However, recently at least one has shown up on store shelves that
claims to be for 'Exterior Use'. I like Poly, the Clear water-based kind for
a lot of interior work. I think it gives one of the hardest, smoothest
surfaces - in a very short time. I haven't tried the 'exterior' one, so I
can't comment.

What I have used is a hard, or 'short-oil', varnish. There are several
brands available. What I use, and the most commonly available is the West
Marine 'house brand' - 'Skippers Varnish'. I have used it on thwarts & other
'boat' applications, as well as other exterior wood items around the house.
You can 'fill' the grain of the wood, but it would probably take more then
the usual 6 coats that I apply. The schedule of coats - thinned, thinned,
then 4 un-thinned - will yield a textured, glossy finish. {you can make it
'satin' by rubbing with a 3-M pad}. It can be cleaned with mild soap &
water. It WILL degrade over time. However, it can be periodically
'refreshed' with a slightly thinned coat 'as needed'. Again - that will
depend on YOUR environment.

I never said it was easy or simple - but this should give you what you want.
{Of course I could tell you about using a couple of epoxy 'undercoats' first
.. . } After that - THEN it's easy - the maintenance, that is.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"LurfysMa" wrote in message
...
My wife has an Adirondack chair that her son made for her two years
ago. It is made of redwood and originally had a polyurethane (satin)
finish (no stain).

Since then, it has been on the back deck in the weather. The sides
that get the sun are completely faded to grey and the finish is almost
gone. I know redwood holds up well to the weather, but I am afraid
that it will slowly deteriorate and be ruined if we (I) don't do
something.

The question is, what is the best way to go?

We recently had the house painted and I asked the painter. He said to
use an oil and suggested (I think) "teak oil". Did he mean "tung" oil?
He said it will have a nice natural look. It will need to be redone
avery 1-2 years, but is easy to do with light sanding. Of course, we
will need to sand the polyurethane finish off first (ugh).

I have tried to talk her into painting it white, but she wants the
weathered look. (sigh)

What about a tougher polyurethane? Is there a marine version that is
more weather resistant?

Thanks for the help.