According to Joseph Gwinn :
In article ,
(DoN. Nichols) wrote:
According to Joseph Gwinn :
[ ... ]
From the photo, it looks as though the faceplate is slightly
melted on the top right side -- but I can swap the faceplate from my
other one into that. It *may* be simply another JPEG artifact, as the
photo was rather heavily JPEGed. Or it could be dirt, or reflections.
It is right next to the missing special knob, in any case.
It looks like dirt plus JPEG to me. The nearby paint isn't blistered.
Agreed -- though the knob might have been. I'll know later when
it arrives -- if he ever gets in touch with us for shipping fees and the
address to send the payment to.
[ ... ]
If you care to look at it, the eBay auction number is
7612826976.
Aside from the rather special switch knob missing, there is also
the clamshell case bottom/top and the linkage which joins them and
allows opening/closing without ever letting the parts separate.
All in all, a suitable boneyard denizen.
Yep -- and a lot cheaper than having someone rebuild the
existing meter -- even before I lost the hairspring. :-)
I wonder if I'll ever spot that hairspring -- perhaps when
cleaning up somewhere. :-)
[ ... ]
OK. But I bet they read the MIT Radiation Labs series (which laid out
the technical basis for radar, as developed in great secrecy during WW2).
Quite likely. Or encountered it in their college classes
recently enough so they still remembered it.
Before my time -- I had to read the old books.
This was in the early to mid 1960s, IIRC, so those had a chance
of having encountered it in their classes.
I just got an isolation transformer (Tripp-Lite, 250 watt), so I can now
see the voltage waveforms in the AC powered strobe. After changing the
wiring in the isolation transformer: They had the output-side white
(neutral) hooked to the green (case), which makes sense for many
applications, but not for working on transformerless line-powered
electronics.
Agreed. I think that my isolation transformer is Triad, and
IIRC it has a rotary switch to make adjustments to the output voltage to
test equipment at slight over-voltage, and slight under-voltage.
However, Tripp-Lite made it easy to fix. All I had to do
was take the cover off, unbolt the grounding terminal, and insulate it
with some green heat-shrink tubing, yielding the desired floating output.
I'm seeing what I assume is interference from the main flash pulse
getting into the optical shaft-angle sensor. It appears harmless, but I
wonder what the path is, and what else it's getting into. The path is
not optical, and the effect occurs long after the trigger pulse has died
away.
O.K. *Which* AC-powered strobe? Not the Strobotach, since it
doesn't have an optical shaft angle sensor to start with. Have you
started working on something else while I wasn't looking?
Enjoy,
DoN.
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