Well, the OP didn't say anything about the substrate being damaged or rotton
but if that were the case and he still really wanted tile, either thick
plywood alone or with cement board on top would make an acceptable
replacement. Or, you can continue to try and convince him to stay with a
laminate top (not necessarily of the formica brand name) which he apparently
dislikes which requires disassembly of the old counter and backsplash,
trimming and seaming the new counter and then installing that big heavy
thing. That does not sound easier than slapping on some tile for a few
years.

One more note to the OP. 18" tile set on the diagonal is the right depth
for a counter and you may like that pattern better than perpendicular. With
a tile saw and some contrasting material, you can make all sorts of patterns
but the bigger the tiles, the less grout lines you will have.

Thinset (premium modified kind) directly on the laminate might hold if
skuffed and primed with concrete bonding compound but I think a mastic would
work better as it remains slightly flexible.

trying to stick tile to formica and get everything to lok right just
isnt worth the effort

I don't think the effort would be any greater to install on a laminate
substrate using a polymer mastic adhesive, the concern is about long term
reliability WRT grout line cracking and tiles releasing from the bonded
surface and also as you noted, collapse of flexing of the underlying
substrate (the old counter). (IMO)




wrote in message
oups.com...
with drain and supply line issues and most likely formica backer is
rotted at least a little your better off just replacing the formica
tops. picking a stock color is cheap, and for not a lot more a new sink
and faucets

trying to stick tile to formica and get everything to lok right just
isnt worth the effort