Here's another Bob's workbench to look at for some ideas. I designed this
about 6 years ago when some others were also looking for a low-cost but
sturdy workbench that could be built with minimum tools. Bernie Hunt has had
this on his site for a long time and there are both CAD formats (dwg and
dxf) and 2 PDF files that he has posted there for anyone that wants them.
http://www.huntfamily.com/work_bench.htm
Drawings show all the dimensions and some notes. I used to have some posts
saved that described alternate suggestions with one being about the top.
I've made several hobby and craft benches (L-shaped, benches with shelves)
since this original bench using 2x4 lumber and found a top solution that
works very well. For pounding work, you do not want a top that has "spring"
to it. I've made frames from dimensioned 2x4 lumber that have cross-bracing
dodo's to the side rails every 16" and then topped with a sheet of 3/4" PDF
cut to overhang the top by 3" all the way around.
The MDF is then drilled for 2" long screws and countersunk at about 12"
intervals all along the frame rails and cross pieces and screwed to the
frame which acts like a torsion box - solid as all get-out. The MDF top is
then covered with 1/4" tempered hardboard screwed down and countersunk at
12" intervals all around the outside edge. I have coated the tempered
hardboard with poly and it has lasted over 10 years before I recoated. The
hardboard is scratched, gouged and well bruised but still does not need
replacing.
Under the overhang, I used some 3/4" x 3" wide pine glued and screwed to the
underside. This provides a thicker edge plus it can be used for clamping
etc.
I then used a 3/4" x 1-1/2" hardwood edging, mitered on the corners, glued
and screwed into the pine. If you want to screw into the MDF edge, use a
3/8" drill and drill some 2" deep holes perpendicular to the top and then
tap in some 2" x 3/8" hardwood dowels coated in glue. Make sure the dowels
are grooved to allow glue to push out and so you don't split the MDF edge.
Cut the dowels flush to the edge. Now when you install the hardwood edging,
drill small dia hole for the screw to go thru the edging and screw into the
dowel. You can countersink these screws and use tapered plug to cover the
screws. Obviously you need to mark where the dowels are and do your layout
carefully.
The MDF/tempered hardboard screwed to a rigid frame is a solid surface to
work on that is tough, impervious to spills and absorbs hammer blows without
bounce much like a maple top. The plans I made were fashioned from a
workbench design in FWW that used all hardwoods and a pre-made maple top
with a cost of nearly $1,000 by the time it was built and a shop full of
tools. Mine was made from the best 2x4's I could find (rift sawn) which
were 20% kiln dried. I placed them in my basement and stickered them to dry
for about 3 months. They got down to 12% after a few weeks and to 10% after
turning my dehumidifier up a couple of notches. Summers in upstate NY are
humid.....
The plans show a top made from 2x6's and after making several tops as
described above, I think you would be better off with the MDF/tempered
hardboard top. It's flat and solid with no expansion or contraction with
weather changes and uses low-cost readily available materials.
Bob S.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm looking to build my first workbench. I was planning to use the Bob
Key style workbench plan in Popular Woodworking as a place to start.
My question is what type of wood should I use. Bob Key's original
workbench page says that he went to a home center and got pine two-by
stock. The Popular Woodworking article references Southern Yellow
Pine.
I live in New Jersey, and so far I've found that the construction grade
two-by stock that the local home centers carry are made of "Green
Douglas Fir", which is not kiln dried. The local hardwood dealer
carries kiln dried Eastern White Pine, which is much more expensive,
and I am on a budget for this project.
My questions a
1. Has anyone had failures using construction grade type two-by stock
to make a workbench, and what type?
2. If I get the "Green Douglas Fir" and just let it sit around for a
while, how long can I expect it to take to dry/acclimate to my
basement?
Links for reference:
http://web.archive.org/web/200306211.../beginners.htm
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/fe...ea.asp?id=1069