"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message

-snip-


Not necessarily -- but it takes some somewhat tricky wiring. I


wow, you ain't kiddin'


came up with a fairly ugly pattern when I first re-wired my Clausing
from 120V to 240V. I later re-wired it for a much cleaner design,
after battling the available switch sections in the drum switch. (It
would have been easier with one more switch section, but it would then
need more wires between switch and motor, so this is better overall.


whew. i've been working on this problem for hours and hours and hours.
i've been trying to figure out a solution on my own. i thought it would be
more satisfying if i could've figured it on myself. actually i do think i
came up with a workable solution but it would necessitate buying a new,
different design drum switch. (that is if Jim's CRAPPY schematic works).
i'm impressed with your wire routing.



I wasn't sure whether you had actually run a ground wire and
just not drawn it, so I felt that it was a good idea to mention it just
in case.

thanks. hadn't run the ground wire yet but kept eyeballing the green screw
on the motor housing reminding myself that i would when i got it figured
out.



With a 3/4 HP motor, it will probably be a wash in most things,
though the higher currents to be made and interrupted by the drum switch
will result in slightly faster wear of the contacts. I don't know
whether it will make enough difference to result in failure in your
lifetime when used purely as a hobby lathe.


yeah, like you said, prolly won't be an issue.



So you did -- and your drawing showed something which I forgot
to mention in the wiring, so it is good that you posted it, instead of
just assuming that you could use it as described. (It was the position
of the (Red) wire in the motor.


yeah, that purple wire going to nowhere was confusing me and making me feel
very depressed.
i swapped the red wire end for end and am hoping that will be ok,
red/black - black/red.



I've seen electricians who would make similar mistakes. It
helps that I've done electricity and electronics as a hobby since late
grade school, and worked in it since the early 1960s until a few years
before I retired. (I spent some of the last years at work as a unix
networking administrator -- another of my hobbys. :-)


thanks again for helping me. you've really put a lot of time and energy
into this problem. i'm eternally indebted to you. i've always wished my
brain could grasp and comprehend electrical stuff. every time i've tried to
solder up some sort of home made electrical device i've failed miserably, i
mean, i can do, i believe, basic electric house wiring, and i can solder,
but electronic stuff never works.



As you did. I would like to see the results of a Paint drawing
of this one done from my text description too -- so I can check for
other things which I forgot to mention, like what I forgot in the 240V
option.


thanks. i made up some more diagrams in Paint last night.


this one is based on Jim's (CRAPPY) schematic. i went back and forth
between Jim's (CRAPPY) schematic and the drawings in the link Glenn posted
(that have major missing information). (and my own sketches from
disassembling the motor) this is the one where i need a new/different
switch. i don't know if i can locate a switch like this to buy so was
plotting to try to modify the switch i have now.


http://www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/240final.jpg


-snip-




Do you have an ohmmeter? It would not hurt to check whether


:-) i have an electrical checker thing. not sure if it's called an
ohmmeter.



there are connections between terminals (2) and (4) and any other


i dissassembled the motor. as you suspeced earlier, there aren't (any
connections between 2 and 4). i took apart the motor to trace the lines.
the only way i could figure out how to do it (easily) was to poke one of the
probes through the varnish coating on the windings wires. i'm worried it's
not ok to rupture that coating. i sprayed polyurethane onto the place where
i broke through the coating. hope that's ok too. as a side question, that
is something i could never understand. how/why the electric current wants
go to through the wires instead of just bridging across each other to the
"shortest route". i always thought that VERY thin varnish coating wouldn't
be enough to insulate the wires from each other. how does that work?!?!



terminals before applying power. Just because my tests on my (much
older) motors show that does not promise that HF did not do something
strange. :-)

Anyway -- with the wiring setup which I have suggested for 240V,
you only need three switched wires -- plus the ground -- which may make
it easier. And you can use the terminals for connections there, so you
won't have bundles of electrical tape insulating splices. :-)

:-) besides a safe installation i also like a neat installation. my intent
is to get some stranded 14ga. wire and bundle four wires
(black/white/red/green) inside a 3/8" BX jacket to run between the motor
and the switch (with crimp eye connectors on the ends) and run a 14/3
extension cord from the switch to the 240 wall socket.




I did not check it out at the time -- and the article has now
expired off my newsreader so I can't check it now. As a result, I don't
know what it may show. (It was pretty late at night when I hit it the
first time, and I already had an image in my head of how to do the
wiring and how the motor was set up.

I'll snip my text description for 120V -- as I believe that you
already have it saved off.


I just like to share what I know to help others.

Enjoy,
DoN.

P.S. Out of curiosity -- why do you not use capital letters for
the start of sentences and for the pronoun "I" (including forms
like "I'd" "I'll", "I'm" and such)?


sorry about that. it must be a habit picked up from using various chat
programs. typing as fast as possible. the long explanation for not using
capital "I" is i was trying to train myself to have some humility.



It makes reading a little more difficult, and it drives my
spelling checker nuts. :-)


sorry.


thanks Don dude!

b.w.

oh, i uploaded a cleaned-up version of your wire routing drawing.

www.frontiernet.net/~wwixon/240dons.jpg

i swapped the wires to "C" and "D" as you suggested. and swapped black for
red.