According to Glenn :
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
[ ... ]
No wonder I've been having trouble keeping track of which of
you posted what. Both of you have names which start with 'G', end in
'n', and are in the 4-5 character range. :-)
Amazing how easily the mind can fill in the letters to be what you expect 
There is an e-mail floating around with all the letters munged around but
starting and ending correctly and with the right number of letters.
Interesting
:-)
[ ... ]
BTW I've now made my copy of the "chuck" -- thanks to your scans and
measurements.
That's pretty much what I thought but had nothing to base it on but logic.
Your chuck is probably better than the original one anyway I was not
overly impressed with the one in my kit. To take the burr off from cutting
the slots they just ground down the threads so it has 4 flat spots where the
slots are.
I used some narrow slitting saws on the horizontal mill. (Well,
I only *used* one, but there are four on that arbor in a setup for
another recurring project.
The body of the chuck was held in a 3-jaw chuck on a dividing
head for the Emco-Maier Compact-5 lathe's milling attachment, which was
held in the vise on the horizontal mill. I cut twice for each slot at
each depth -- once with the dividing head rotated 180 degrees from the
other (so I cut at 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 180 degrees and 270 degrees).
This way, whatever very small error I may have had in centering the
slitting saw blade over the end of the body was translated into very
slightly wider slots.
So -- to make this, I have used:
1) Clausing 12" lathe (with collets, for turning body to
desired diameter, drilling, reaming and tapping (hand tapping,
but using the tailstock to get it right.
2) Same -- for turning it around in the collet after parting off,
drilling undersized and reaming to 0.125", then turning to major
thread diameter, then threading, and finally turning off half
of the threaded length to minor diameter using the threading
tool still set up in the lathe. Then turn a 15 degree taper
with the compound.
3) Same -- for turning end cap to diameter,knurling, and drilling
through hole, and part it off with a bit of the parent stock to
take it to and chuck it in ...
4) Compact-5/CNC -- to bore to minor diameter, and single-point
the internal 5/16-32 thread (testing against the male already
made in the Clausing for the body.)
Next -- make a tapered D reamer.
5) Back to the Clausing, to turn a length of 5/16" Water hardening
drill rod to the minor diameter, and to turn a taper on the end.
6) To the Nichols horizontal mill -- to slab mill that drill rod
to half diameter.
7) Fire up the heat treating oven, and wrap the drill rod in
stainless with some paper to use up the oxygen, and quench.
(Also deal with the leftover leaves just outside the shop
(garage) door, to avoid a chance of fire if I drop it while
still hot).
8) Eat dinner while the oven cools back down to tempering
temperature -- then temper and shut off the oven.
9) Go to Taig lathe (yes -- a third lathe), and chuck the tool
made from the drill rod in the tailstock chuck, and the knurled
nut in the aluminum soft jaws, and use the Taig and the just
finished tapered D reamer to machine a taper inside the nut to
close the collet.
10) Back to Clausing -- screw nut onto body, and hold body in
collet while turning a taper on the end of the nut to remove
half of the knurling (as per photo).
11) To Nichols horizontal mill with assembled body and nut in
dividing head to cut wrench flats on the nut, and then the body.
12) Still Nichols horizontal -- but change the arbor to install the
thin slitting saws, and cut the slots as described above.
So -- this used how many machines?
Clausing
Compact-5/CNC
Taig
Nichols horizontal mill
heat treating oven.
All to make a little 2-piece part.
I was half-way expecting to need to use the little surface
grinder to finish that D-shaped tapered reamer I made to make the
internal taper. But it was sharp enough as finished. I had to make
that because I did not have any boring bars which I could trust at that
small a bore. I was lucky to have a threading insert which could be
used for the 5/16-32 thread. (I really need to add that tap to my
collection. :-)
But -- I've tried it on the toolpost grinder, and it works
nicely with all of the mounted stones which I have -- the larger ones
(1-3/4") spun up only with the slower pulley combination, the 3/4" and
smaller spun with the faster pulley combination.
BTW -- I've discovered that both the black stamped steel wrench
with the Dumore name stamped in it, and the standard small forged wrench
have one end at 7/16" (for the arbor and pulley nuts), and the other end
at 3/8" (for the "chuck" flats). So -- I didn't even need to add a
wrench to the toolbox.
Now -- left to make:
1) The spacer so it will always mount at the center height on the
Clausing.
2) A better T-nut for mounting it on the Clausing.
3) Dressing diamond holder.
And then to find a project which really *needs* the TP grinder
to do properly. :-)
Glad ya got'er done
Thanks -- so am I.
But I'm falling way behind here in rec.crafts.metalworking. If
it were not for the scoring feature of my newsreader moving threads in
which I have been participating to the front, I would probably not have
found these articles until tomorrow -- or the next day. There are
nearly 400 articles left to read -- even *after* my killfile does away
with known political threads. :-)
Thanks again,
DoN.
--
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