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BobK207
 
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Default Advice on rotary hammer and foundation drilling


Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2006-04-12, BobK207 wrote:

I done this a LOT, that is, drilling into concrete with rebar.


Thanks for all the info. I just received the item requiring the
precisely placed 3/4" threaded rod (a Simpson Steel Strong Wall
SSW12x8). I now see that the bottom holes to bolt it to the
foundation are oval shaped, so I do have some leeway to move the hole
if I hit some rebar.

BTW, is drilling a 3/4" hole any easier than drilling a 7/8" hole?
Most of the holes I need to drill are for anchor bolts, which only
have to be 5/8", so they would only need a 3/4" hole. But I figure it
would be simpler to just do everything with 3/4" rod in 7/8" holes.

Cheers, Wayne

P.S. Why does everyone use epoxy to grount in the anchors, instead of
a cementatious grout like hydraulic cement? Is epoxy stronger, or
just easier to work with?



Too bad you already got you StrongWall I would have suggested a
ShearMax


anyway

"is drilling a 3/4" hole any easier than drilling a 7/8" hole?"

Slightly but it depends on the capaciyt of the hammer, I have a Hilti
TE-52 that can drill up to 1 1/2" so 3/4 or 7/8 not much difference
but my Milwaukee Falcon (nominal 3/4" capacity) would struggle witha
7/8" bit


"Most of the holes I need to drill are for anchor bolts, which only
have to be 5/8", so they would only need a 3/4" hole. But I figure it
would be simpler to just do everything with 3/4" rod in 7/8" holes."

Use the rod size they suggest, the smaller rod with be more forgiving
with respect to placement & fit up

"Why does everyone use epoxy to grount in the anchors, instead of
a cementatious grout like hydraulic cement? Is epoxy stronger, or
just easier to work with"

PourStone, PourRock, etc are fast setting cementious anchoring
compounds that work well. I've used them in some situations but never
for uplift on shear elements. I have no idea of the tensile
properties. I have experience with epoxy; construction & testing. I
know it works

IMO the epxoy goop is easier to work with, esp the Sika AnchorFix that
goes in a standard caulk gun The strengths are in the 5000psi+ range

they sell it at HD in the masonry section, the two parts come in a
single standard caulk cartridge (two plastic "bags" inside the caulk
cartridge)

There is a fast (~5 minutes) & a slow set (~30 minutes) AnchorFix1,
2 or 3 I don't remember the number. Read the tubes.

The fast set stuff with harden in the nozzle for you don't keep
dispensing new proucts every minute or so. I've lost lots of nozzles
by being delayed & setting the gun down; only to find the product
setup!

If you use the fast set, ....................you've got to ready, setup
& quick!

cheers
Bob