"Roger Hamlett" wrote:

** Also, a 'cooker', that is rated at 1235W when running, will typically
draw many times this rating for a few seconds whenever the element
switches on. **



** What bull**** !

Heating elements use wire with an essentially fixed resistance value.

Won't change by more than few percent from cold to hot.

Never heard of Ni-Chrome ???


Yes, heard of Ni-Chrome, and a _lot_ of modern equipment, does not use
it (cost)....


** Many cheaper alternatives exist - all with low tempcos.


Many of the devices like the one being shown, use ceramic printed
elements, which have over 2:1 resistance change from cold to hot.


** More absolute BULL****.

The variation is only a few percent.


Not as large as things like Tungsten filament lamps, which typically
have over 4:1,


** Tungsten lamps vary by a ratio of 10:1 or more.

You are just plucking numbers out of you fat bum.

I suggest you take your medicine, and stop being rude.


** You need to take a dose of rat bait and stop posting utter bull**** on a
public forum.


I said 'Tungsten filament lamps', as are used in devices like this for
heating, _not_ for light bulbs.


** Shame you did not **post** any such damn thing.

My comment was totally correct and stands.


BTW:

I tested a modern (Chinese made) 2400 watt electric kettle.

Current draw started at 9.4 amps slowly falling to 9.2 amps.

Similarly for an modern, 800 watt toaster, 3.3amps falling to 3.2 amps.

--------------------------------------------


What you claimed above about a 1250 watt heating element is just pain WRONG.

The initial current draw is not "many times" that indicated by the the
name plate wattage rating.

Domestic circuit breakers will not allow such extended period overloads.





........ Phil