One pole and neutral run the motor and timer at 110V and both poles (w/o
neutral) make the 220V to run the heating element. If the breaher that
dosen't have the motor across it trips, the motor will run but the heat
won't fire. If the other breaker trips, it will stop alltogether.

More seriously, there should be a 220V dual breaker with a tie bar in that
location not two 110V breakers. It creates a shock hazard when someone
trips the breaker with the motor and leaves the other one hot. Touch the
heater terminal and the grounded chassis (while you think it is off) and
someone is doing CPR (well, duh, you shoulda unplugged it ayway).

At least try to get a tie bar to connect the 110V breakers if possible



"tom&kel" wrote in message
. ..
john lawrence beat me to the punch... i have two 110 flip style circuit
breakers for my dryer. i will occasionally have the same lack of drying
and it is always that the switch doen't trip fully and runs on 110. sop
is to switch both off fully and back on. this always happens when the
kids overload the dryer. good luck
"John Lawrence" wrote in message
...
Did you check both fuses? You may only be getting 110V. This will allow
the dryer to run but at a lower temp.
"Tom McQuinn" wrote in message
...
I have a Kenmore electric dryer. It was starting to take a long time to
dry a load of clothes. After searching Google groups for answers, I
spent a torturous afternoon cleaning the 4 inch vent (from middle of the
house with two 90 degree turns). I never did get the flexible vent brush
all the way through but I do believe I finally crushed all the lint
together from each side. Then when I jammed rags around an electric leaf
blower nozzle and blew out the clogs they left an ejecta trail 20 feet
into the yard. At this point the exhaust vent honestly seems pretty
clear. When I go outside the airflow feels practically as strong as it
does straight out of the dryer.

It is working a whole lot better but still doesn't work as well as it
used to. It seems to get hot enough. But the timer advances before the
clothes are dry. If not for this I think you could put a full load into
it and come back to find dry clothes.

Thankfully, Sears has exploded drawings available:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?M25D12DDC

And the legend:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?V58D21DDC

In reading through the dryer troubleshooting section of repairclinic.com
I see a reference to the timer only advancing when the unit reaches the
proper temperature (seems hot enough to me) AND the moisture sensor
tells it that the clothes are drying.

When I look at the exploded drawing, item 34 (very top of the drawing,
center of the page) is called 'electrode sensor'. Does anyone know if
this is a moisture sensor and, if so, do you think it could be worn out?
Dirty? Time to cough up the cash for a service call?

I do know that the timer did not used to advance this way. It might
have run a long time if you were drying something big and heavy but when
it stopped the load would be dry.

If I'm on the wrong track here, thanks in advance for any ideas that
might help me get this machine working well again.

Tom
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