Amused wrote:
I have hopes that others will share their personal tips and lessons
learned....
snip
2. When designing a new shop area, as far as I'm concerned, THE initial
consideration is to think about wood storage. Woodworkers, almost
invariable end up with pieces of wood, too good to throw away, and even in
hobbyshops, these quickly become a problem. Solve this problem first.
Consider tool position second.
This only becomes apparent when you start buying more wood than you
need for the project at hand. THEN it can become a real problem.
While
sheet goods are best stored flat, that doesn't make it very
accessible. So
figure on storing vertical
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/PlyStorage.html
Here's my ply storage in its context
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ftSideMap.html
If you work with solid wood, a miter saw with tables near the
door, with shelves for wood above and behind it lets you do
initial "junk" removal right away - split ends, non square
ends, torn up parts, knotty areas etc.
If I had it to do over again, I'd put the board storage shelves
behind my SCMS. put my wall hanging tool cabinets on the
opposite wall - and turn my workbench around. Too late
now - but
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...geShelves.html
Here's my wood stash in context - right rear corner and right
wall
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...ghtSideMap.htm
3. Shop cleaning. I have a Powermatic dust collector, and I use it. I've
discovered that dryer vent hose and fittings work just as well as some of
the dedicated (and expensive) dust collector piping.
Get the dust collector as close to the big chips and dust generators
- drum sander, joiner, planer and table saw.
4. Shop cleaning. I do not like walking around in sawdust. I end up
tracking it in the house, and causing marital disharmony. It's very
difficult to get a really good finish in a dusty work area. Over 20 years
ago, at an auction, I purchased a cheap electric leaf blower. Now, I open a
garage door and simply blow out the entire area. Providing the small tools,
(nails, screws, etc, are contained), it is a very quick process.
Works for saw dust - not so good with what comes out of a joiner
or planer, or the stuff handtools generate around the bench chips and
chunks and little cut offs - and the little trapezoids handcutting
dovetails
produce.
A few floor sweeps off the dust collector works well, especially if
you have a compressor.
Cravat: Be careful. Blowing dropped screws and nails into your driveway is
not productive.
5a. Tool care. I have found that there is a great unit for keeping
non-electrical tools in pristine condition, and that's the dishwasher. When
doing home maintenance on lawn mowers, or the truck, I haul all my hand
tools into the kitchen and run them through a cycle in the dishwasher. With
the drying cycle turned on, the grease is removed, AND the tools are blown
dry, so rusting is not a problem. A quick swipe with a slightly oiled rag,
afterwards is recommended.
The dishwasher will not remove existing rust. Some tools, specifically
old/antique planes, are really prone to rusting, even with the drying cycle.
Immediate attention, with some paste wax is recommended.
CAUTION: I've never had any problem with japanning, but I have had old
paint removed, and the process will remove any patina, especially on the
wooden parts, like the handle and the knob.
Using a dishwasher on non-chromed tools probably should be approached with
extreme caution. and NEVER used on a collectable tool.
5b. Occasionally, it is possible, when washing alot of greasy tools, that
there will be a slight aroma of petroleum left in the dishwasher.. Empty
the dishwasher and do another cycle.
5c. I've found that the dishwasher will do a creditable job with buildup on
circular saw blades.
5d. NEVER attempt this process, when SWMBO is home.
While chromed wrenches and sockets might be ok - I'd never put
a chisel or plane or handsaw in a dishwasher, aside from what it'd
do to the wood handles. Anything with a cutting edge should not
have hardwater build up on it from "cleaning". And I don't think
getting cast iron hot is a good idea - if you want flat backs/bottoms
and flat sides square to the bottom , , ,
6. I've found that good cabinet saw, properly tuned, with very good saw
blade, (60-80 tooth) will usually produce a glue ready edge. Most of the
time, I don't even bother with the jointer. For me, it's a gigantic pain in
the butt to achieve perfect alignment with joint knives, even with some
modern gadgets. I've noted that some of the high end jointers now have
corrugated bases on their knives. When the knives are machined sharpened,
they are all sharpened with the different knives exactly the same distance
from the grinding wheels. Then, when the knives are installed, the
corrugations on the base of the knives, fit precisely in matching grooves in
the cutter head. Perfection can be achieved in a matter of minutes.
Haven't seen that one but it sounds like the best of both worlds -
set up
only once AND the ability to shift knives left or right after one
encounter
with an "edge dinger".
8. I highly recommend taking the time to level all the tools and
workbenches. I use the disguarded plastic slats from a two-inch widow blind
for shims. They are rugged, non-compressible and can be easily cut to any
desired length.
If by "level" you mean all the contact points of the big stationary
tools being in contact with the floor - yes. If you mean having
their
tables parallel to the surface of the earth - yes for the workbench -
tools have a harder time escaping off the bench top that way.
9a. Check your levels. I use a simple method. I place he level on a wall,
and then, center the bubble as close as possilible. I draw a line. Then I
flip the level end for end and repeat the process. If the second line is
not exactly over the first line, then the level is not true.
YES! Better to KNOW than to ASSUME.
9b. A square, (framing or otherwise), that isn't perfect, is pretty close
to worthless. The internet provides methods of truing a framing square.
But, I know of no method of truing a worn a tri-square. (Any suggestions)
10. On a good level, the bubble will exactly touch the inner set of lines
when perfectly level. On most levels, you will note that there is usually
two sets of lines, the second set, slightly outside the first set. I am
reliably informed that if the bubble touches either one of the outside
lines, then the level is at exactly the right slope for draining water.
Useful for plumbing and flatwork applications. (I actually made it quite a
few years without knowing what that second set of lines was all about.)
11. ALL my metal tool boxes, and over the years, I've acquired several,
have a piece of outdoor carpeting applied with contact cement, to the bottom
of the tool box. It stops the tool box from rusting, and stop the box from
scraping hardwood floors, when a clumsy oaf (like me) inadvertently kicks
the box.
Sharp tools and metal enclosures shouldn't go together. Wood is much
easier on them - look nicer - and don't rust
..
12. For years, I would glue a strip of carpeting to the tops of my saw
horses. It worked well, but eventually, the carpet would be spotted with
glue and paint drips, dirt and this usually meant throwing away the
sawhorse. Now, I take the time to create a disposable top, usually of 1/2"
plywood. I do not finish the wood top. I've found that I do want a bit of
friction between the top and the piece of wood I've sawing or sanding.
When sawing on saw horses - sheet goods cutting down to managable
sizes jive old pine works - and is easier on the blade's teeth.
TASK LIGHTING! Put a gooseneck or the like task lite on or near
any thing that requires seeing critical things - miter saw, mortiser,
drill press, router cabinet etc.
One often overlooked - get some of the tool UP where you can see
what you're about to do - miter saw, drill press table.
Add a bigger table to your drill press and include some T-track
to hold a fence and/or hold downs. Having a piece of wood start
spinning on the end of a big forstner bit is not fun. DAMHIT
(see forstner bit with 15 degree angle in the shank)
Running water, cold only ok but hot and cold preferable, a sink
and a drain line, preferably a sewer line.
Metal cabinet for flammables, like shellac, lacquer thinner,
alcohol and all the oil finishes that accumulate over time.
Mine are in a double walled "flammable storage" unit with
spring loaded doors that close automatically. This thing
has 5 inches between the bottom of the metal cabinet and
the bottom of the doors - don't want flaming liquids leaking
out of this puppy.
And while on the subject of fire - FIRE EXTINGUISHERS -
halon preferable - less post fire rust removal. Put three
or four in each major shop space - one near the door
in case you have to leave BEFORE the fire is out.
That should do it for my first cut at the topic
charlie b