Tom Nie wrote:
This is probably carpentry vs woodworking.
Have a 4' double pocket door (2'+2') opening with one wall side normal
drywall and the other has two layers of styrofoam insulation attached
under the drywall. It's a 6" wall using a 4" pocket door assembly.

Have built this house from scratch but don't know the best way to
layout and attach the casing. As flexible as the door's frame is I
want to use the casing to stiffen it as much as possible. For the
jamb I'm thinking a 1x screwed into the small openings in the steel
frame along with construction cement. Then bring the casing to the
jamb as normal but cement it as well - ?screw to the steel/mdf frame?

The pocket door frames I am familiar with have a 3/4" wood "stud"
attached to the steel. With them, one fastens the jamb/casing pieces to
the wood "stud"....if one were to go through the steel, the screw point
would interfere with the door itself. Scratch the hell out of it too.


Regardless of how your frame may be constructed, I wouldn't attach trim
pieces in any manner that would not allow their simple removal should
the necessity arise. I have two pocket doors; one we used to partially
close at night and the dog learned to stick her nose in the 3-4" opening
and push the door open more so she could come and go from that room.
Her wracking pushing messed up one of the hangers and I had to replace
same. To do so, you have to remove trim to get the door out. If I had
it to do over, I would have *no* pocket doors.

The trim pieces will give the same rigidity just screwing them to the
pocket frame. They will add considerable rigidity but not to the point
of making the frame non-shakeable.

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dadiOH
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