The firing pin is a piece of flat stock affair with the tip slightly rounded
where it strikes the primer. I would use mild flat stock & case harden for
45min~1 hour in Kas-en-it @ 1600d F. You will need to harden the part since
it is subject to high wear, especially where the sear catches.Since this
part is relatively simple, you can straighten out any warpage that occurs.
And the soft core will reduce the possiblilty of a sudden failure during
usage, an important feature in any firearm ignition system.

Of course you can get any of these parts from GPC or other sources, but that
might not be as fun.

Tony


"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 10:57:29 GMT, Gunner
wrote:
On 17 Mar 2006 18:16:42 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

(4140)

Any thoughts on where I should shoot for on the
hardening?

50-52//just as a gut feeling.
Is the sear carried on the bolt?

No, but of course that leads to the followup question. The firing pin
on the 1927a1 rides with the bolt, and is a piece of 1/8" flatstock cut to
an interesting contour. I made a new one (broke the firing pin tip off
of the original one due to my sear spring reduction experiments).
However, after only a few hundred rounds, the firing pin where it mates
with the sear, is showing rounding. It's unknown alloy. An point in
trying to harden that, at least in the part which meets the sear? I'm
completely ignorant of heat treating, which is pretty obvious at this
point, but I'm thinking get that local area of the firing pin up to
cherry red or so, and quench in oil?

Without knowing the alloy, I know it's a crapshoot. But knowing the
person I got these materials from, if it's newer than 1970 technology
I'd be shocked. Any thoughts?