"Bill S." wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
Unfortunately, the dead flyback is one of the angle HV connector types.
Found a sticker in the bottom of the set: 3620030005. Have found
similar
ones for 3620030006/7. The newer board had the 352140-1 flyback on it.
Guess I can just repair it if (when) it blows.
Sorry I misunderstood your message, I thought you were saying you had
one of the angled type still working.
Well, it "was" working until it died. Been reading about "ringing" a
flyback using an o-scope and the calibration setting. Looks like a good
chance to practice on a bad one.
Would it help to replace the electrolytic caps on the deflection and
power
supply boards?
They didn't seem to be a big problem on these boards. If you have an
ESR checker, you could test them while the board is out. Or if they
have leaked or gotten hot.
None look like they are leaking/bulging so I won't break it by fixing
them...
What sort of sealer/lubricant should I use on the o-rings?
They don't use any sealer. Be sure to clean the groove and "C" element
surface squeaky clean. The glycol solution cooling fluid is plenty
slippery.
Or, should I just clean out the crud the best I can, replace the coolant
(with the set angled so the crt in question is level) and see what sort
of improvement I get?
You'll probably see what is going on as you disassemble the things.
The lens assemblies can be removed anytime (four 1/4" screws), but you
will want to suck or drain most of the fluid before removing the "C"
element (larger nuts), or you will make a big mess. Once the "C"
element is out, you can clean the inside of the chamber with toilet
tissue, paper towels, etc. For stubborn encrustation, you can use
alcohol, windex, etc. Finish up with something lint free.
Once you have things clean you can remount the "C" element and fill the
tube. You will need to have the tube angled like normal operating
position if you left it in the set, or on its side if you pulled it.
With the tube level you will not be able to get enough of the air
bubble out of it.
Great... Sounds like I can do it in the set. I'll get an idea how much is
in the chamber when I suck it out. Got two 24oz bottles from MCM. Hope
it's enough...
Do the blue tube first, it's always the worst and will give you the
most noticeable improvement. The green and red will then seem easy.
I'll follow your instructions about convergence, screen, cutoff, etc...
I'm sure that I'll be back for more brainpicking. Learning about this stuff
is very interesting.