Ok here it is from my Metrology book from Mitutoyo.

"The cleaning process is very simple. The whole cleaning process shouldn't take any
more than several seconds for each block. A can of Denatured alcohol available in
any hardware store would be the best cleaner for this purpose. Moist a piece of
paper with denatured alcohol and place the paper on a flat surface (e.g. table).
Denatured alcohol will immediately start to evaporate, so quick in this operation.

There's a type of cleaning paper called "lint-free" wiper for laboratory use."
e.g. Kimberly Clark - Crew 2 wipers. They have unique pressed on patterns to grab...
'lint-free' is a misnomer - listed as low lint wiper for clean rooms. semiconductor grade
"Wear gloves when handling steel gage blocks." Not only body acid but body heat
that will alter the quality of the block.

Now for a grin : The word "gloves" is my spelling. The text contains: "groves" sic.

Got to love the GR GL mix up in a US generated manual.
[ My bet is so much of this was tech - that the tech pubs didn't know what was right... ]
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Jim Stewart wrote:
Robin S. wrote:

"Jim Stewart" wrote in message
.. .



I noticed that in order to get them to wring
together, the surfaces had to be close to
perfectly clean. I assume they have to be
re-oiled after use.



I usually wipe the working surfaces on a clean sheet of paper. I've
found the wring the best using this simple cleaning process. Laying
the paper on a clean surface plate does an excellent job.

While I've heard paper is abrasive, I'd be surprised if you could
actually do any damage to the blocks (just in case anyone wants to
object). The gauge blocks at work are subject to an environment rife
with abrasive dust, as well as what some would call abusive use, and
they still wring.


I can speak somewhat authoritatively on the
subject of paper, having served as project
manager designing high speed ballot counters.

As trees grow, silica matter is picked up
from the soil and gets tightly embedded into
the cellular structure of the tree. The silica
stays there even through normal paper production.

A piece of mild steel or AL, pressed against
quickly moving paper, can have thousandths
sanded off in a surprisingly short time. Likewise,
a glass window will get scored quickly.

Whether one or two swipes with a gauge block
would do any damage over the life of the blocks,
I don't know. I'd probably not do it if I
were using the blocks frequently.

Does anyone know what the accepted procedure
is for testing mikes and calipers? Some
sort of progression of blocks that serves
as a worst-case test?



Those gauges that Peter mentioned are pretty neat. I have to ask
though, are you doing work that will hinge on the last .0001" or so of
your mic's accuracy? Seems excessive unless the mic you're checking is
very old or well used.


No, not at all. What I'm more interested in is
whether or not my import calipers are reading
right over their full length of travel. The
calipers only have to be accurate to a couple
thousandths for my work. Lenny's advice of staying
away from even intervals is probably all I need
to do.





----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----