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Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,misc.consumers.house
Peter Shepherd
 
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Default Vapour barrier and water proof paint in insulated basement walls?

One engineer's basement I put 2" extruded styrofoam on using Bailey retainer
tee's instead of studs, and tapcons into the block wall.
Acoustic sealant in the styrofoam joints to complete v. barrier.

If you want to go all out on preventing mold on drywall, as I think you're
close to Toronto, you could also try

DensArmour Plus Paperless Drywall [avoids future rot] available at:

Patene - Hornby, 401 & Trafalgar - 4 x 8 - 1/2", 19.65 / sheet, vs
regular white = 13.00/sheet, green drywall = 19.84, agent says DesArmour may
altogether supplant green drywall soon, except if older is heavily
discounted to builders, has
exactly same finish as regular drywall, no charge for /= 20 sheets, but if
only 5 or 10 $40 or 50 to Oakville. Do ship to Toronto, have bundle with
another order, no charge if able to schedule with other orders. (Feb 06 $)

If you're retrofitting higher than basement & want the ultimate in vapour
barrier [though I'm not sure how much use it is in retrofit without being
able to join around top plates etc]

- Certainteed "MemBrain" nylon vapour barrier with variable perm rating.


MultiGlass in Toronto has new nylon vapour retarder :

Price of Membrain, 8' (100") = 800' sq $147.00/roll + tax
9' (again + 4" overlap) = 900' sq $166.00
10' (again + 4" overlap) 185.00
12' (again + 4" overlap) 222.00

Peter Shepherd

"Harry Muscle" wrote in message
oups.com...
Actually I believe I have solved the issue on the outside. As
mentioned in the first post, I used to have water seeping in, but I
haven't had any since last year when I redirected my downspouts away
from the house. There's been several very heavy down pours since then
and nothing seeped in, so I'm pretty confident in that, however, I
always have a habit of going overboard so that's why I was thinking of
painting the walls with DryLok.

That link posted by DT looks really interested though, and I'm thinking
I'm going to pursue what it says there by using the extruded
polystyrene. I haven't gotten thru the whole article yet though, so
I'm not sure if that would make the DryLok uneccessary or what?

Thanks for all the responses so far,
Harry