Thread: Boring a taper
View Single Post
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
Gunner
 
Posts: n/a
Default Boring a taper

On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 22:46:19 -0600, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

I've been practicing boring a MT #1 with the compound on my Sherline lathe.
The results, after 4 tries are pretty dismal to say the least.
The compound was set against a standard MT by feeling the taper and setting
it for constant drag on a piece of paper, through the length of taper. The
material is 12 L 14. Each attempt resulted in a taper alright, and one that
would lock, but there would be a lot of runout depending on how carefully I
positioned a test taper in the new socket. It appears the taper (socket) is
a loose fit on the small end. I expect the taper male to fit solidly in the
socket and be automatically aligned straight with just a tap from a plastic
hammer. Not the case. Any suggestionss - please. Is there a better way
than "feeling up" an accurate standard taper, like I'm doing. So far I
haven't tried the chalk or layout blue method of determining fit. The throw
is so short that there is only a very small window of adjustment on a MT #1.

Bob Swinney


Too thin a boring bar and too flexable a lathe. Shrug.. Its actually
better to drill and ream a #1 cause the tooling is by nature gonna be
pretty thin

I was having the same issues with a #2, even when doing it on a
Hardinge HLV-H..the best results were with very high spindle speeds
and tiny cuts towards the end. Stuff was deflecting.

So I scounged a set of #2 roughing and finish reamers.

This works SO much better now

Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3