Opinions will vary, but .0005" runout on any part is about as good as it'll
get for home shop machine parts, in my estimation.

You can find a procedure for truing up the jaw faces in the RCM archives,
with a small grinder (Dremel or other type), and you'll be in good shape.

This will depend on the fit of the jaws to the chuck, and the position the
jaws are in when you do the truing. If the jaws don't fit the chuck body
tightly (with no material chucked), then a new set of jaws or other work
will be required.

I haven't encountered a scroll mounting method that you've described, maybe
some more investigation (or other owners) will reveal a way to disassembe
it.

WB
.................

"Steve" wrote in message
m...
Well I took the 8" Buck Chuck apart and cleaned everything up. This is
not an adjust-tru chuck but is stamped with an S547. It came with my
'57 Sheldon Lathe so I am assuming it is original. I could not get the
scroll body out of the chuck body. It appears to be a heat fit.
Meaning it looks like the chuck body was heated until it expanded and
then the scroll body was put in. I could not get it out for anything.
I checked the runout on the spindle (.0005"), checked runout on
backplate (.0005"), and checked the body of the chuck and it was
around (.0005"). Chucked up a piece of cold roll steel and it had .01"
runout. That is either a problem with the stock or a problem with the
chuck jaws. I am going to get another piece of drill rod and try it
again. The backplate was such a tight fit into the chuck body that it
had to literally be pulled into the chuck using the outside allen head
screws and this was after being lubed with SAE30 machine oil. There is
no provision for adjusting the backplate while it is on the spindle
because the fit is so tight inside of the chuck it cannot be moved. I
don't believe moving the chuck around the backplate will make a
difference either. From what I can see of the scroll it looks like it
is in very good shape. The jaws also look very good and they are all
in their proper position. Any suggestions if the runout is still there
with the drill rod? What about shimming the backplate and chuck body
to offset the runout? Will this only be good at that diameter? Thanks,
Steve