In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm wrote:


WALLS

Well if you went for cavity, then the inner leaf would typically be
some sort of insulating block - ok ish for fixing to but not ideal.
If you went for single skin with a studwork frame stuffed with PIR
foam then you could clad it all in ply which gives you an easy way to
fix anything anywhere. Probably work out more pricey than blockwork
though.
How about blockwork, and then clad *that* with plywood?

FLOOR

I would expect if you laid out a grid of rebar and wired it together
before pouring the screed it would be plenty strong enough.

Could I simply use a heavy wire mesh, rather than individual bars? What
depth of screed would be needed to prevent it cracking under point loads?

ROOF
Tiles and a pitched
roof would probably look nicer though - again you can do a warm deck
type of construction with those IIRC. Have a poke around either the
kingspan or celotex site I have a feeling they had an application
note showing a way of doing this.

A pitched roof with insulation immediately under the tiles sound good - so
that the storgae space is on the 'warm' side of the insulation.

ELECTRICS
Haven't really thought about them yet, but I shall need some light
and power. I assume that they will have to be Part P compliant, even
if the structure is exempt from building regs?

You could argue that if building control are not involved you can do
whatever you like ;-)

Not sure that 2-Jags would see it that way!

Some questions that need thinking about first though: Is the building
to be joined to the house or some distance from it? How were you
planing on heating it? What sort of workshop tools do you expect to
want to use out there?

It will be 7 or 8 metres from the house. I'd probably use a couple of fan
heaters on the odd occasions when I was working in cold weather. I'm not
proposing to use any tools which need more than a 13a plug each - drills,
circular saw, hand-held power planer, etc.

The minimum requirement is for lighting, and power for the door. I *could*
run an extension lead from the house for the tools - but it would be much
better to have permanent power in there.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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