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DoN. Nichols
 
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Default Stainless Steel Project Help(part 2)

According to :

[ ... ]

Personally, I think that he could not shear the pin without
first breaking something else, such as the mounting of the whole
assembly.


Pull-up force woul dbe transmitted to the following components in
order: Ball-knob - Threaded Shaft - Pin - Shaft Sleeve - Center
Plate - Ball Bearings - Delrin Cups - Top Plate(which will be bolted
to the underside of the control panel).

b) If the whole game weighs 300 pounds, you probably don't *want*
someone to be able to lift it by the joystick ball, so it would
be better to use a pin which *would* shear first to protect the
rest of the machine.


Actually, I don't believe that in the worst case scenario the maximum
pull-up force would reach 30lbs. Even momentarily if an enraged gamer
yanks the joystick upwards.


O.K. Then there is no problem.

c) The roll pin will be a spring grade steel, *not* a stainless,
so it would be vulnerable to corrosion anyway. (So would the
dowel pin, for that matter.) *Except* that it is not out where
it can be handled, and unless someone is going to be pouring
pints of sweat down the shaft, I see no problem.


I just did a redesign that would allow the pin to protrude if
necessary.


O.K. But you should be able to find the roll pins in the right
length to not need to worry about that.

I see deburring bits and simular in the Dremel catalog. The various
Dremel tools have different bits for different operations on wood,
plastic, and metal(including stainless). I'll see if anyone at the
Dremel forum has any ideas.


The main problem is having a steady enough hand to control it as
you use it to open up the jagged slots.


No problem. :-) If it were a problem I could create a template.


O.K. Good luck with that.

O.K. I think that I posted that as an example. When you get
your _Machinery's Handbook_, you can look it all up there.


I decided to get the 27th edition:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7010710723 Hopefully
I'll have that this week.


O.K.

[ ... ]

Ok. Since "time" is a complete non-factor for me, would a 20% drop in
the rated rpm and/or feed rate suffice?


Sure. Maybe even a 50% drop.


Ok. I'll start at half the recommended rpms and work my way up.


O.K. That should work.

You can get quick-change tool holders -- at least for the AXA
size and larger) which have a Morse taper. Get one which matches the
taper in the tailstock -- or adaptor sleeves to reduce if necessary --
and you can mount the tailstock drill chuck in the toolpost, parallel to
the axis of the lathe spindle.


I was looking at an MT2 tool holder. I already eyed an 3MT to 2MT
sleeve to give me flexibility:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7542413378


O.K. The price does not seem too bad.

The major problem with it is that you have to be careful to both
adjust the height of the tool holder (only once), and you have to adjust
the position of the cross slide to be precisely in the middle of the
spindle's axis -- *every* time you go back to that after doing something
else with the lathe.


Perhaps with a 60 degree center reamer the rear of a tool holder can be
shaped to fit the center in the tail stock. Lining up would then be a
matter of backing the tool holder into the tail stock.


Normally, a Morse taper shank should *already* have a center
hole from when it was made. And center drills should suffice. No need
for the center reamers.

The main question is whether the back of the shank will be
within access from the center. And also, as wear builds up, there will
be slop in the position of the tailstock ram and thus the center.

[ ... ]

This suggests that you need to find a *service* to receive things
for you, because MSC uses UPS for all their shipments which are not too
heavy. I suspect that it was your catalog.


Yes. I had UPS divert it to my job in Manhattan.


O.K.

(*Huge* catalog with *expensive* tools).


And some quite inexpensive things too. Look up the roll pins in
the size which you need. I expect that a box of 100 will be quite well
under $10.00. And look at the prices of screws. Compare the prices of
a box of 100 to perhaps three or four of the same size screw in a
hardware store -- especially in Home Depot. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

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