Don Bruder wrote:
In article .net,
DaveC wrote:

Hello,
I want to use the XC18A wireless video camera in a stand-alone mode without a
controller (for the camera to be on when power is supplied to it). I presume
that I must figure out how the X10 controller turns on the camera, and then
permanently enable the camera. Therefore, I need to know something about how
the electronics inside the XC18A wireless camera work.
work just fine)
snip

The cable going from the supply "brick" to the camera has 3 conductors: 12v,
ground, and another conductor. Does this third conductor get 12v when the
"on" signal is received? 5v?

Third conductor is unused. No idea why they wasted the extra money on
the stereo (tip/ring/sleeve) jack/plug when a cheaper mono (tip and
sleeve only) jack/plug would have worked exactly the same, but they did.


Coming in late....

The original X10 cams actually had only one pair of wires (ie power)
from the wart to the cam. These use a normal wall-wart power connector.
I believe at some point X10 modified the design with the extra wire so
that the camera could always be warmed up...turning on only the RF when
the unit is selected. The entire unit, transmitter and power was turned
on by the wart when selected. These are the ones I have. The power
supplies are VERY cranky. Often, they will not turn off at all. The
camera with the best signal then controls what you see at the receiving
end...to a degree.

I've not found a solution for this, although sometimes, removing power
for several days corrects the issue temporarily. I've pondered
connecting each to an X10 appliance module and 'normal' warts...not ideal.


Mine are very temp sensitive...only it's not the camera which is the
issue. Frequency control is horrid at low temps...takes several minutes
below about 40 degrees for the transmitter to ramp up to the proper
freq'...if it ever does. You can watch the process by switching the
receiver to different channels. I was able to restore some
functionality by switching the receiver and cameras to different
channels; but each camera is different in its response to temperature
variation, so that's not an ideal solution.

I've finally moved them all inside, which helps the stability; but the
'always on' issue won't go away.

To the OP, I see by the thread that you've solved your problem.
Congratulations. I wish there was a better solution for mine. I have
one camera which mimics your problem: raster but no video. If I apply
some 'percussive maintenance to that one, it comes back for a time.
I've opened up the camera section, but cannot find any bad solder joints.

jak