Preston,
I like that idea about the 1/2 plywood rabbeted to the 1/4 inch
dimension...that's a great idea. Damn, wish I would have thought of that.
Thanx a bunch. I appreciate the other good ideas you've sent....I guess I
was restricting myself to the router bits I had and the 1/4 inch sheet of
hardwood plywood I was planning on using....should have done the 1/2 inch
ply. And I'm going to get some of those space balls this weekend for sure.
Mark
"Preston Andreas" wrote in message
. com...
Mark,
The space balls will keep the thinner panel from rattling.
All my shaper cutters also stick a 1/4" groove. If I have to use a 1/4"
(5mm), I use spaceballs to limit movement and rattling. Also, I turn the
door, outside face down, press down on the panel and tack a 5/8" brad
through the lip of the stile/rail and through the edge of the panel. Make
sure you angle the nailer so it doesn't exit the profile on the other
side.
Perhaps the easiest method is to glue the ply panel to the stiles/rails.
Lay
the door face down and put a little weight on the panel to keep it tight
to
the outside edge of the stile/rail. You can do this with plywood without
having to worry about wood movement. You can't do this with solid wood. It
has to have room to move. If the doors are paint grade, simply caulk the
gap
on the back side, again pressing on the panel to keep it tight to the
front.
And for a proper paint job, you also want to caulk the front edge of the
panel to the frame. Use an acrylic latex or similar that stays pliable.
I eliminated the problem by rabbeting 1/2 ply (3/8" was too hard to get
and
in some cases more expensive than 1/2") to fit. This method also gives a
heavier, better looking door and the reveal in the back looks good.
Oh, one other method is to use a shaker style cutter set. Make a small
bead
moulding, say 3/16" x 1/4", on the router table and nail it to the inside
edge of the door where it meets the panel. For that, you would need a pin
nailer (23 ga).
Preston
"Mark" wrote in message
ink.net...
I thought that "space balls" were to take up the vertical and horizontal
slack/space on a panel and allow movement. I don't think they are to be
used to fill the space front-to-back on a panel, but I suppose they could
be
used that way. Anyone ever do this?
Correct slots, as you mentioned below, would have been good, however I
wanted to use the new "frame & panel" router bit set I just got....and
you
can't adjust the slot on those things....at least I don't believe you can
without a whole lot of messing around.
Mark
"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
"Space Balls".... look he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...GMHDDADADADBDB
or the correct size slots...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...slot%20cutters
Mark wrote:
I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity
using a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using
these bits). I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and
installing the 1/4" plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20
inches thick where as the slot for the panel is 1/4 of