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Gerald Ross
 
Posts: n/a
Default roughing gouge question

Norbert wrote:
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 12:34:34 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...
Although checking the sites of the manufacturers referenced above does
not tell you that you shouldn't, the people that sell the gouges seem
to be emphatic that you don't. I did notice they highlighted the
warning, too. BTW, Packard tools (for the most part) are branded
Crowns.


They're also the ones who remind you not to use your lawn mower as a hedge
trimmer. Presumably because some folks don't do much thinking.

Why someone would say such a thing is curious, because these were the only
gouges available for hundreds of years before advances in metal milling made
the cylindrical gouge - cheaper to make - the "bowl" gouge. For longer
reaches, they were made "long and strong," but the pattern was the same -
equal thickness material and equal angle grind. You'd have to undercut the
groove in a cylindrical gouge to get back to the advantage of equal
thickness, of course.


Thank's for all the feedback, feel like I poked a wasp's nest.
I'm not going to use it for bowls, eh!
Guess I'll have to seriously consider getting one now.
SWMBO is going to tear my face off, but she'll gat over it when she
sees the wonders I perform with it.


I sharpen mine with a blunter bevel (40-45 degrees) per Leonard Lee's
book. I think this helps it withstand the wham bam of roughing large blanks.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A guru is somone who knows more jargon
than you.





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