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a12vman
 
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Default Relocated Washer Drain

I didn't follow. My total run is ~ 22 Feet. I only have ~ 6" of fall to
work with over the 22 Feet. With only 6 inches, I would hardly have any
fall. Am I missing something here?

As far as the vent goes, can I get away with adding an Air Admittance Valve?
I don't have a vent stack anywhere nearby.

Instead of a drain pan I am using a recessed washer box with a solenoid that
shuts the hot-cold valves when the washer is not in use. It also has an
integrated leak sensor that I will place on the floor near the washer.




"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
. com...
a12vman wrote:
I am going to try to explain this issue without including a photo.

I am moving my Washer/Dryer Hookups ~ 12 Feet to another room on the 1st
floor of my house. I was in the basement last night looking at how the 2"
PVC drain would be moved. Currently the drain comes down through the
floor to an elbow just below the Floor Joists. From there it runs for
10' pitching toward the main septic line(already tied in to the lowest
point) going out at a rate of 5 inches over 4 feet.

So my question is, what is the smallest pitch that is acceptable
considering that it is a 2" drain and that it needs to travel ~22 feet to
get to the main drain line? I want to avoid notching out the Floor
Joists if possible. Any alternatives?

Thanks In Advance,
-a12vman


1'4" per foot will work just fine. So, you will have
approx. 6" drop over the run. Consider putting a WYE
fitting in the run for a cleanout, JIC.

The P-trap will need a vent connection (of some kind) just
downstream of the trap.

Since this install is on the 1st floor, would a drain pan
under the washer be appropriate in case of spills/flooding?
Now is the time...

Jim