Your book sounds like it's confusing you more than helping you. Solid
wood is just fine. Doors have been made from it for centuries.
Ideally, you'd make the rails and stiles with a cope and stick joint,
but that requires a fairly expensive set of matched router bits; I'm
guessing you don't have those.

A good, fairly simple alternative is this:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/sto...ml&catref=wd16

Unlike doors with a wooden panel, however, glass panels usually don't
get locked into a slot in the rails and stiles. Instead, the glass
sits in a rabbet in the back side of the door and is usually held in
place with small removable pins. That's because glass sometimes has to
be replaced. It would be impossible to get a new pane into the slot
without taking the rails and stiles apart.

This page has a some pretty good diagrams contrasting the glass style
vs. wood style (drawings 1E and 1F). It also will give you a better
picture of cope-and-stick joinery with matched router bits. By the
way, there are links to several matched bit sets on the left side of
the page:
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/curvecope/

Another piece of advice:

Where this is really your first project of this magnitude, I'd
seriously consider doing overlay doors and drawer faces, rather than
inset. It's often difficult even for experienced wood workers to get
inset doors to perfectly match the opening. With overlay doors, it
doesn't matter if the opening is slightly skewed or if the door is
1/16" too wide; it won't show. Pick out your hinges ahead of time, and
size the doors so that the overlay matches what the hinges require.

Josh