"bent" wrote in message
...
I have read that this is an effective technique. More specifically, the
book said to use the type of thinner/cleaner for the finish you are sanding
as the lubricant for waterproof (Silicone carbide) sandpaper. I am not
sure that I can bring myself to do it without being re-assured.

What would be the technique to do this. Do you need to rinse it off?
Would you rinse that with straight thinner, or water, or a dry rag, or any
prescribed order of any or all of the above? Does it require a wipable
surface (e.g. tabletop) to squeegee off?


Okay, here's what I do. First off, I thin the poly. Maybe, about five
percent. The stuff is barely thicker than water, with the thinner. (I
swear, one of this days I'm going to try dipping a small project, rather
than brushing it on.)

I put it on quick, and LIGHT. I use as light a touch as I can and still get
full coverage.

It's more of a sealer coat, at this stage. I let it dry thoroughly, usually
overnight, and then sand lightly with 220 grit sand paper.

Then I apply a full strength coat of poly. Again, I don't fuss with it. I
apply it lightly as I can, since sags and runs are practically impossible
to remove. Another sanding with 220. It should be very smooth at this
point.

Usually, I apply another coat. Again, it most dry thoroughly. However,
this time, I use 600 grit sandpaper. It doesn't sand it as much as it
polishes it.

It's going to take at least two coats, maybe three. Get use to the idea.

For sure, patience is not my strong suit. But dry means thoroughly dry, not
mostly dry. If it takes overnight, that's what it takes.

Do not fuss with poly. It flows together as it dries.

A couple of thin coats are always better than one thick coat.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.