"bent" wrote in message
...

I have read that this is an effective technique. More specifically, the
book said to use the type of thinner/cleaner for the finish you are
sanding
as the lubricant for waterproof (Silicone carbide) sandpaper. I am not
sure
that I can bring myself to do it without being re-assured.


Many people use thinners or water to wet sand between coats, but all you
really need to do is break the glaze. A red 3M pad will do beautifully for
this, with no lubricant. 0000 steel wool will work very well also, but it
sheds and you have to be very careful to remove all of the slivers before
the next coat goes on or you do a great decoupage job over them. I only wet
sand the final coat unless I somehow get some big globs of stuff like dust
or bugs in the build up coats. Small dust nibs can be left as they are in
the build up coats and simply knocked down in the finish coat, but small is
a difficult term to define. Typically, things like mosquitoes are too big
to leave...

--

-Mike-