The rational behind this is to avoid leaving a non-compatible residue
on the finish, while getting the benefits of wet sanding. If you use
water, on a oil based finish, you might trap
some in an imperfection somewhere.

But before you try mineral spirits, consider the down side. It is
flamable. You should not be doing this inside a shop, unless you have a
professional finishing room. You should have a fire extinguisher handy,
and be wearing gloves. You also should not be using it if it will
soften the finish you are sanding. If you try laquer thinner to sand
laquer, you end up with goo. It is not a great rule of thumb. But to be
fair, mineral spirits is not near as flamable as laquer thinner or
acetone. But caution is called for.

You do need to rinse, with mineral spirits, and let dry, and then use a
tack cloth. Water will work almost as well, but you do need to let it
dry a bit longer. That is the benefit of using mineral spirits. Mineral
spirits in it self will not leave a residue. And is useful for dewaxing
if a finish might contain disolved wax. Just do not use it inside.


bent wrote:
I have read that this is an effective technique. More specifically, the
book said to use the type of thinner/cleaner for the finish you are sanding
as the lubricant for waterproof (Silicone carbide) sandpaper. I am not sure
that I can bring myself to do it without being re-assured.

What would be the technique to do this. Do you need to rinse it off? Would
you rinse that with straight thinner, or water, or a dry rag, or any
prescribed order of any or all of the above? Does it require a wipable
surface (e.g. tabletop) to squeegee off?

Assuming the following (another reason) were true, is this safe?

Assuming the following (another reason) weren't true, is this safe?


I think I just thought of another reason why not to. I am doing drawers.
This may trap slurry, swarf, whatever you call it, into tight areas you
can't scour, squeegee, gravity won't work, etc.. This trapped thinner may be
harmful over time, regardless of the other answers.

BTW, all the drawers now have an "air tight seal" around all meeting corners
now that the bottom and sides are poly'd to one another after the first
coat.
Also, I have and will be using a tack rag to clean it. I foresee spotlessly
clean corners regardless in my near future. Recommendations?
I'm using Minwax Spar Satin Poly.
I am going to be sanding with 220 (Silicone carbide) sandpaper anyways.
Just wondering if MS as lubrication is safe, and now, in this drawer
situation.



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