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Posted to rec.woodworking
Lee Michaels
 
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Default Drilling Peg holes


"dnoyeB" wrote
Morris Dovey wrote:
dnoyeB (in ) said:

| In my stereo cabinet I have adjustable shelves. The walls are AC
| Fir plywood. I was drilling in the holes with my cordless B&D
| drill. The plywood kept ripping around the hole.

Three FYI's:

I've gotten excellent results with a 1/4" straight bit in a plunge
router.

I've also had good results using LV carbide-lipped brad-point drill
bits in a 2500 RPM corded hand drill from HF. IMO, for any given bit
type, higher RPM seems to give best results in wood. I bought the HF
corded drill just because of the high RPM and have been pleased with
the result.


This is kind of what I thought so I almost got out my corded drill. But
its hard to rev up the RPMs before the drill is in contact with the wood.
When I touchdown the bit has been walking a little.

I was using a standard drill bit. I'm going to get a set of those
brad-point bits from LV. Looks like lots of folks use LV. Good store?

One feature of the brad point drills is that they have a nice little point
to place on your mark. It doesn't wander. You can fire up the drill and ease
it into your stock.


The old trick of drilling through masking tape works fairly well.


Its hard to imagine a extremely thin piece of tape preventing a powerful
drill from ripping strips of plywood up. Maybe there is "woodworkers"
tape or something?


Another thing that I do is to just use some some hardboard. I put the
textured side down because it doesn't slide around. I mark and drill tiny
pilot holes on the hardboard. When I fire up the drill with the brad point
bits, it just cuts cleanly through. The hardboard stabilizes and prtects the
wood underneath.

And yes, Lee Valley is an excellent source for tools. But brad point bits
should be vailable just about anywhere.