If you want to see one in action, Mike Mahoney has a DVD out that shows
it being used. Craft Supplies has it, and Mike has it on his web site.I
hope to have one out later this year. I have a number of posts about it
here about using it.

I have the complete set of inboard coring knives (large, medium, and
small) and for 98% of the cores I take, I use the 2 smallest radius
blades on the small and medium blade sets.

For first attempts, use some softer green wood, not something like
black locust, and don't try anything over about 10 inches in diameter.
The blade should feed with little pressure. The amount of pressure
(push) determines how thick of a shaving you will take off, On a big
bowl you don't want a lot of pressure. Always keep some, but not a lot
pressure on the handle pulling it towards you. This pressure helps the
blade to almost self feed. If you are having to force it, something is
wrong (shavings over the tip after clearing, drift is causing it to
bind, the cut isn;t smooth and the bumps on the core or wall are makine
it bind. A hot blade and or steam is a good indicator of this).As the
blade goes in, it wants to track toward the outside of the bowl. All of
the coring systems do this, but since this isn't on a fixed radius, it
wants to drift more than the others. Pulling on the handle helps to
counter this drift. Make a slip collar to go around the tool post so
that the cutter will be at center height without having to fiddle with
it each time you core. Having the cutter at center height is VERY
important.

If you are ever headed down I-5 to Oregon, look me up, I'm in Eugene
and would love to help. Any more questions, let me know.

robo hippy