The sled's fence needs to be perpendicular to the miter gauge slot if
one is being used. Since the miter gauge slot and the router table fence
are almost never used together, and since the router table fence is
usually adjustable, it could be a coincidence if the fence and the slot
are ever parallel.

If there is no miter slot, it might be better to guide the sled with the
front edge of the router table (if it is suitable) than with the fence.
Once the sled fence is made perpendicular to the table front face, it
will always be so. When an adjustable fence is used, perpendicularity of
the sled fence to the router table fence has to be checked/adjusted
whenever the fence is adjusted.

However, if a miter gauge slot is available, it is usually much better
that a coping sled be guided by it, rather than by the router table
fence. The main reason is that the cutter is prevented from pushing the
work away, which is often seen in coping operations.

Sorry to be so wordy.

Chuck


LRod wrote:
On 30 Jan 2006 22:12:10 -0800, "bdeditch" wrote:


As the title says, can anyone direct to some plans to build a coping
sled for a router? Thanks in advance


Slab o' plastic (about ¼" thick-a lexan type--acrylic, I think--would
be better than a brittle plastic, like polystyrene--I'm not too good
on plastics). You could also use Baltic birch.

Stick o' UHMW for a fence. Screw to plastic. Make sure it is
absolutely square to the side of the sled that will bear against the
router table fence. You could also use Baltic birch.

Toggle clamp. De-Sta-Co is the original, I think, but there are
others. Screw to UHMW.

Has to be just about the easiest accessory to build. No need for
plans.