On 30 Jan 2006 17:00:10 -0800, "grodenhiATgmailDOTcom"
wrote:

I've tested the outlet with a circuit tester and it appears they are
not grounded. To further the investigation I've pulled out the outlet
(after shutting power) and pulled the outlet out a bit. There are only
4 wires coming in, 2 white and two black (both black wires on one side
of the outlet, and both white on the other).

This would be indicative if you had romex, but I don't think you do.
Was there Romex in the 50's??

But if you have BX, wires through a spiral metal sheath, your boxes
may well be grounded. If it is metal.

Did they have plastic boxes inthe 50's? I don't think so. So your
box is metal, but make sure..

You have to check again.

If the box is grounded, the outlet is iiuc guaranteed to be grounded
when it is screwed to the box -- but not when you disconnect the
outlet to look behind it.

I hope you got a VOM, a volt-ohm meter, or a multimeter, which is also
a volt-ohm meter with different words on the package.

Much more useful in general than other testers. Don't buy the
cheapest one RS has if it uses a moving needle, but get a cheap
digital one. There are times when that is not as good, but they will
be rare. (If you have to, later you can get a wiggy?, or a meter with
a needle.)

Set your meter to 120 volts AC or higher (200 is a common value on the
AC voltage scale.) Stick one probe in one of the slots in the outlet
and touch the other probe to that metal screw between the two halves
of the outlet (or if the outlet is not screwed to the metal box, touch
the other probe to the metal box.)

You have two slots, one that is hot and one that is neutral, and this
test should show either no voltage with either slot, or no voltage
with one slot and some voltage with the other.

If it shows no voltage between either slot and the metal box, the box
is not grounded. (this test has to be done with the power on, (to an
outlet that works (as I assume all yours do.))

If it does show voltage between one slot, probably the wider one, and
the box (or the screw in the middle of the outlet) it will probalby
show 117 volts, or 110, or 120. In that case the box is grounded,
and the outlet will be when you screw it back in place (although check
again after it is in place.)

If it shows something less than 110, post back here for more info.

The wires seem in good
shape (pliable and rubber sheathing was in good shape and not cracky).
I checked down in the basement and the wiring to the older plugs looked
like the texture of a gaarden hose and was called Citex. My questions
a

1.) If I were to hire electrician APPROXIMATELY what could I expect to
spend to get say 4-5 outlets converted (in the room right above the
fuse box). The fuse box is only a few years old and properly grounded
for the recently rewired kitchen/bath and newly finished basement.
This is in the north east (RI).

2.) If the cost in question 1 is too high, I may use a GFCI outlet as
the first in the series on the circuit and redo all the others with
standard 3 prong (I'm told this is ok code).

GFCI outlets and circuit breakers trip if the ground is no good. That
means you have to have a good ground to begin with. No one here has
discussed, that I have read, using GFCIs with 2 wires in BX or metal
conduit. How would that work, guys?

3.) Worst case... Is it still possible to buy 2 prong outlets (this all
started with wanting to replace the old panted over ones).

I think so. If not maybe you could buy 3 prong and fil the ground
hole with epoxy. That would make the point that there is no ground,
although I don't know anything about Code in this matter.

Thanks in advance!!

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