Thread: kitchen worktop
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
Richard A Downing
 
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Default kitchen worktop

On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 14:13:30 -0000
"Roger Mills \(aka Set Square\)" wrote:


I suspect we're talking about 2 different sorts of cut. I was talking
about a straight full-width cut, as in cutting a worktop to the
required length. The edge will show, and needs to be very straight
and square - *very* difficult to achieve with a jigsaw. You are
talking about cutting an aperture for an inset sink, etc. - where the
edge will be covered by a flange. A jigsaw is fine for this - in fact
far better than a circular saw since it will cut rounded corners.



What I do for these cuts is to make a rough cut with a down-cut jigsaw
to within about 5mm of the required length, then using a slamped-on
straight-edge as a guide, use a router to finish the edge. You need a
12.7mm collet router with a proper worktop cutter ideally. This gives
an edge so smooth that you can stick the edge laminate on without any
further finishing.

I do much the same for the apperture cuts. Make a jig out of 12mm ply
or MDF. Cut the hole with the jigsaw, then finish with a router and
jig - in this case I use a pattern bit with a top bearing - takes two
cuts. Then you can use the thin laminate designed for postformed
worktops to seal the edge.

Remember to paint a sealant onto the cut edge if it isn't going
to be laminate covered. Otherwise MDF or Chipboard will wick moisture
in and swell.

R.