Hi Hank

The main reason one uses braided instead of solid wire is for
flexibility. Solid wire fractures more easily than braided. A great
example of this is CAT5e etc computer network wiring. (The blue stuff)
In the wall they use single copper strands punched onto connectors. Once
it goes from the wall to your computer they use braided wire...

When you terminate a braided wire in a screw connector you can actually
get better contact than a solid wire as it distorts to fill the space
better. A heavier turn on the scredriver would fix that for solid wire
though.

Its the total metal cross sectional area (and type) that determines the
amount of current that can be drawn. You will get a voltage drop in any
wiring that can be defined as a loss of efficency. It does however go
somewhere as radiated heat from the wire itself. Copper is about the
best to use for money outlay. Aluminium and steel have more loss/distance.

A HWS I think is around 1500W. Thats about 13A at 110V or 7A phase to
phase 220V. I'll admit I dont know US wire sizes too well but in
Australia they had 7.5, 10 and 15A leads. 15A was suppose to have a
special plug type. Given the low cost of the wire I'd suggest something
that is rated at 25A min or so, just in case your HWS has dual 1500W
elements.

You can measure the voltage drop over the wire when the known load is
on. From that you can calculate resistance/conductivity and thus
efficiency. Ohms law etc. Dont think I'd bother though...

Cheers Bob

hankB wrote:
I have an outdoor receptacle (B)that is connected to a GFI outdoor
receptacle (A) via a shielded extension cord-14?.B got wet, corrosion set in
and I plan to replace it.I have been told that an outdoor solid wire from A
to B would be better and that if I used a braided wire unless ALL the
strands are securely attached it might conduct but not be able to handle a
heavy load such as an 120 V electric water heater. True? Is there a way I
can measure whether the braided wire is fully conductive