"CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert" wrote in message
...

I'm not sure I really need the extension wings and stop block on the more
expensive one.

Are these acceptable choices, or perhaps if I am willing to buy these I
should go ahead and buy an __?


I recall loving my B&D cordless hammer drill. However, I am finally
realizing the torque settings are kind of SWAGish and inconsistent. Its
innaccurate. Do you think the B&D Miter saws might also be innaccurate?


And finally, am I to put this on the floor and cut, or is there a specific
type of table to buy/make? Im pretty handy but my respect for power saws
runs into the realm of fear, so the more info the better.

If you are going to spend the $170, for a few $ more, get a DeWalt 703
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&s=hi&v=glance

If you are cutting long 2 x 4s, the extensions are a big help in supporting
the wood safely while you cut. I cannot imagine NOT having them. Picture
this: You are going to operate the saw with your right hand. You want to
take 3" off of an 8' board so it has to be held down with your left hand.
Therefore, you have about 7' of wood hanging off the end of the saw and you
hand is 6" away from a blade spinning at 3500 rpm. Would you take a chance
and pull the blade down or would you like to have a little extra support?
If you don't buy the extension, at least rig up a support with a table or
sawhorse, or a drum, or something.

While on safety. I always bring the blade down to the work before I retract
it and start the motor to make the cut. It does two things. It allows me
to see that the blade is going to be on my cut line. It allows me to see it
is not going to cut my fingers or wrist. People have done it.

Stop block is handy if you are making repeated cuts. Saves a lot of time
and improves accuracy and repeatability.

It will work on the floor, but your back will appreciate a table. I have my
12" saw on a Stanley folding work table. It was about 430 IIRC at Home
Depot. Any reasonably sturdy table or a piece of plywood on saw horses
will do.