Thanks, how much weight on top would be needed for a stack of say 6
slices?

I've been debating the cinder blocks. Probably the cheaper solution.

A single layer of one block after the other lengthwise, is what I would do. So
stickers under the blocks, as well.

But every sticker must aligned perfectly one above the other between the layers,
otherwise the boards will warp, if off. And they must be checked for that alignment
every now and then, and sooner than later.

Look at figure 3 of this link, that is how wood "cups" (VERY easily):
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...?printfriendly

You would lay the wood down so that the *end grain* rounds to upwards on the
edges, where with the tendency to "cup", the wood would do so going convex
upwards, not the other way like a boat. The cinder blocks will work to weight
middle downwards, then you have stability. In that picture, you would turn
that piece upside-down as it is.

Now re-read that!

Get all slices stacked the instant you're done resawing.

I'm going to inventory my odds and ends of cut offs this weekend. Paxtons has some cheap stock for $1 a foot that I may use

I really don't know what type of wood, I would say the harder the better.
Like, softer woods may absorb atmospheric moisture easier and then transfer
it to the pink ivory... ? I'm just using whatever scrap I found for my maple,
which is really hard wood, I don't know about pink ivory, but with such thin
slices, more vital. My maple is thick @8/4 (1-3/4"x2-1/4"x60" each), and
they've been stickered for a year in my bedroom, under the sawhorse work-
bench.

I'm still debating putting the stack above the garage instead of in my study in the basement. Its dry enough in colorado but I
bet the temperature above the garage varies from well below freezing to 90 degrees some days. My study is so cluttered with piles
of wood I'm not sure I have a place where I can lay everything down where it will not get disturbed.

Up above in the garage is the way to go IMHO because you know..."heat rises"
in such a place, it's where you want it. A lumber kiln is a mild oven but you
will be air drying it using natural heat. In the winter you should maybe add
one of those basic barn heaters that have a fan, low heat setting. Tthey shut off
if fallen over.

Unless your basement can be lightly heated, that would work ($$$) unless
there's a lot of moisture down there, which just goes into the air, and into the
wood.

I've had one local woodworking club member offer to 'keep' the pink ivory for me while it dries.

That sounds more like a joke to ME actually... ha ha... "not a chance" I would say.

"Methods of reducing warp when drying (PDF)"
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1983/simps83b.pdf#search='how%20does%20wood%20warp%20or %20cup?'
....may fully contradict me, I didn't read it.

....I hope this helps,

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/