David wrote:

Art Greenberg wrote:

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 20:34:08 GMT, noonenparticular wrote:

I thought about this and it should work in theory. Here's the
problem I ran into in practice.
First, the fence would have to be over 3 1/2" high for the plywood to
bear against it. No problem, fasten a tall subfence to it, right?
Well yes, but now you have the problem of the mass of the timber
pressing sideways against the top of the subfence which is fastened
to a short TS fence. The leverage of all that mass will make the
subfence flex away from the blade, I'm guess substantially.
Secondly, I only have a 10" blade for the table saw which has a max
depth of cut of 3 1/4" while the boards are a *strong* 3 1/2. So
the blade wouldn't even make a through cut, which would concern me
from a safety issue with all that mass against a comparatively flimsy
fence.

jc



Well, a tall TS fence comes in handy for other things. You could make
one that
is stiff enough for this job. Perhaps in this case its a bolt-on,
rather than
something that just slips over the existing fence. And if you make the
plywood
guide wide enough, there will be room at the front and rear of the
fence to
get a clamp on there, to hold the tall fence in place really well.

As for the blade not making the full thickness, right, I didn't
consider that.
But you could use your router with a flush trim bit to clean up the
last bit.


Not if he uses my CMT flush trim bit that I just discovered is .003
smaller than the 1/2" bearing. I was making table inserts yesterday
from a master and found they didn't fit into the recess. I mic'd the
bearing at .500 and the bit at .497. That was the tall bottom bearing
bit that came with the door making set. Since that one wasn't machined
accurately I checked my top bearing bit--perfect. I guess one out of
two is better than 0 for 0.

Dave
I just found that Amana sells a .492 bearing, useful after getting a
1/2" trim bit sharpened.