DIYbanter - View Single Post - GE Profile Triton Dishwasher will not drain at end of cycle.

wrote:
It will drain just fine inbetween cycles, like when I put it on light
wash, it drains inbetween wash and rinse.

At the end of the cycle it will not drain though, still have 4 inches
of water left in there.

I tried to reset the system to force it to drain by pusing start 3
times, still doesn't drain, but at the very end of that reset it shoots
a little water out of the drain.

I have checked all hoses and they are clear, plus it drains fine
inbetween cycles so it can't be a clog.

the piston is find no rubber rot at all, I replaced that 2 years ago.

If I disconnect the hose and lower the hose to below the water line it
will drain, but very slowly at the end of the cycle.

I did get it to drain once, they it started acting up again and will
not drain at end of cycle.

The solonoid seems to be working, I look underneath and it's moving
when it should.

anybody have any ideas?

I am having a similar problem with my own dishwasher, a GE Hotpoint.
However
rather than just not draining at the end of the cycle, what mine does
is it drains all
of the time, so it's constantly pumping the water out. Like yours, if
I play with it
it will fix it for a cycle or two.

Here is what I did so far. Behind the kick plate is a little bag with
the dishwasher
circuit diagram and a bar chart that shows what the positions are of
the different
selonoids and vales are during the cycle. Open this and take a drop
light that shows
these valves. Run the cycle and compare against the clock what all the
switches
and selonoids are doing.

In my case, when it acts up, the drain valve selonoid is switching on
at the same
time the water valve is switching on. According to the timer chart,
the drain selonoid
is supposed to switch on at the end of the cycle. Mine does that too
but it also
switches on at times when the water valve is switched on. Mostly at
the first wash
cycle but sometimes at all the wash cycles.

I did buy the GE step-by-step dishwasher repair manual which parts of
are very
good, and parts of are not so good. This is one of those parts that
isn't so good,
unfortunately.

My suspicion is that my unit and yours are having the same problem, and
that
problem is the timer switch is worn out. The timer controls all of the
switches and
selonoids. I am thinking that the switch contacts in yours are worn at
the point
at the end of the cycle where the drain valve is supposed to turn on
and let your
washer pump drain the washer. And that on mine the switch contacts are
worn
at the beginning and are shorted across and making the drain valve
switch on
when the water valve switches on.

The manual did point out that in SOME models, the water float may be a
problem
to where if that switch turns on that it will trigger the drain valve.
However in mine
the water float is not obstructed, and also the wiring diagram does not
show the
float connected into the drain valve circuit. I am going to test for
this tonight and
see. The other problem I'm having is that as soon as I took the kick
panel off
and started watching the damn thing like a hawk it started operating
pretty much
normally, so a lot of what I'm posting here is very thinly supported
conjecture.

The other problem is the timer is about $100 and this isn't a part that
you shotgun
with, since a new cheap dishwasher isn't that much more than this.
Plus that in
mine the drain valve seal is leaking a bit anyway. The only thing
that's really stopping
me from just replacing the dishwasher is that while cheap, mine does
have a
porcelean-over-steel wash tub, and nowadays all the cheap ones have
plastic
wash tubs. Damn manufacturers and their damn cost cutting - even the
expensive
dishwashers nowadays have the cheezy plastic interiors except for the
super
expensive ones that are stainless steel.

Ted