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Posted to sci.electronics.repair
Ray L. Volts
 
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Default newbie solder question


"Dave" wrote in message
news:2jOzf.93171$AP5.22906@edtnps84...
... I tried using desoldering braid
(which I've used many times with great results) and found that the solder
on
this board just wouldn't melt with my 30W iron. Well, says I , I'll just
use a bigger stick. I grabbed the 45W iron and still couldn't seem to
melt
the solder through the braid, although the 45W iron WOULD melt the solder
directly. I heated each lead and wiggled and jiggled it loose. When I
had
both caps removed I put the desoldering braid directly over the hole in
the
PCB and with a pointed tip leaned on the board until the braid cleared up
the solder. This took maybe a minute or more of continuous heat.


That's far too long to hold an iron to a joint.
Aside from using functional (i.e. quality) wicks, something you need to keep
in mind is tip cleaning and tinning.

http://www.inlandcraft.com/Uguides/tipcare.htm

As for wicks, I've tried lots of different brands and from my experience
Tech-Spray's Pro Wicks and Easy Braid's Quick Braids give the best bang for
the buck. I've never had a spool of Pro Wick fail me, even after many years
in storage. Quick Braid is a little less expensive, though both are priced
very reasonably. Pro Wick performs better, with a little quicker heating
and a faster solder draw. Avoid Pro's Tool wicks like the plague.

A good compromise between an expensive professional desoldering station and
a cheap solder sucker is one of the powered solder suckers. These have a
heated barrel like the desoldering station guns and a simple vacuum chamber
like the inexpensive solder suckers. The wattage of these irons is
typically 30-45W. They can be had for around $20-$30US.