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Bill Rubenstein
 
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Default Bandsaw blade sharpening

Richard:

Generally, you don't need to worry about how much you take off. With a
Dremel and a light touch you shouldn't take off much at all. And, a
blade cannot be reground forever. As mentioned in the thread, the blade
will eventually start cracking, usually in the gullets and you don't
want it to break on the machine if possible. While you are grinding it
is a good time to look for the start of problems.

Bill

Richard wrote:
Hi,

The Dremel with a thin grinding stone worked very well. I'm sure its even
sharper than when new.
I will try the filing method next time, as i think you have a bit more
control over how much you take off.

Cheers.


wrote in message
ps.com...

I use this method. As another post mentioned, don't bother with fine
toothed blades. I only sharpen 2 or 3 tooth resaw blades with the
dremel. I use a 3/16"chainsaw cylindrical stone. This will file the
gullets and the face of the tooth at the same time.
Before grinding, clean the saw of any dust, a spark could cause a fire.
Raise the guide post up. The dremel goes straight in and out, holding
it level and square to the blade. Bandsaw blades are filed in the rip
configuration, no need to angle the dremel.
Usually four strokes are needed. In ,out ,in and out again. My saw
blade is 113", takes about 20 minutes to file the blade. You will find
this method will sharpen a blade better than new. Most new bandsaw
blades are stamped out and not ground.My blades last for several
years,they break from metal fatiuge rather than dull blades.
mike