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Bart D. Hull
 
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Default Grinding drill bits

If it's the original stone, pitch them.

I got some Norton stones from MSC and you wouldn't believe
the difference. Smoother running, faster cutting and less
grit being thrown off the wheel. I got a medium and a coarse
stone for my 10" HF grinder.

Just my 2 cents. I also replaced the "gun" in my
sandblasting cabinet that I got from HF with one from
an American mfg. Night and day difference as well.

If we only had managment that had balls to go against the
import stuff and quit raping the American consumer. Lots of
stuff could be made here at a modest profit. It wouldn't be
the cheapest but quality could then prevail. Just look at
the Japanese cars and trucks built in the USA./Rant OFF

Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check
http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.

Joseph Gwinn wrote:
I had the opportunity to hand-sharpen a half-inch twist drill bit
yesterday, when my too-fast drill press busted the tip of a cobalt 0.5"
bit while I was trying to drill a piece of 304 stainless steel sheet
0.060" thick.

I took Harold Vordos' suggestion if a while ago and sharpened an old HSS
bit freehand. It worked, and wasn't near as hard to do as it sounds.

I'm now trying to sharpen the split-point cobalt drill. It won't be
split-pint anymore, but that's OK.


At least one grindstone on the 6" Ryobi doesn't run true, wobbling from
side to side, making the world vibrate. What would be good replacement,
by make and model? Or, does one simply shim the wheel with cardboard?

Joe Gwinn