"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
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snip----

I'm now trying to sharpen the split-point cobalt drill. It won't be
split-pint anymore, but that's OK.

What bamboo said. You can split the point, too, but study one well before
you try, so you understand what you're trying to accomplish. It's important
for the split point to be dead on center and have the proper angles, so it
takes a little skill. You can do it!


At least one grindstone on the 6" Ryobi doesn't run true, wobbling from
side to side, making the world vibrate. What would be good replacement,
by make and model? Or, does one simply shim the wheel with cardboard?

Joe Gwinn

Never shim a wheel. You risk cracking by the uneven clamping pressure
you'd achieve by the shims. It's good to remember that you should never
run a wheel without the blotter while we're talking about the subject. The
blotter's purpose is to spread clamping forces such that minor wheel
irregularities don't cause cracking when the flanges are tightened.
Don't over tighten. It's not necessary.

As bamboo suggested, check the flanges that they run true. If they do,
using a long handled diamond, dress the sides of the wheel until it runs
true. It's not uncommon for wheels to not be parallel, which will make the
world vibrate, as you suggested. You should be pleasantly surprised that
your grinder runs quite smoothly when you're finished. You can follow up
with a dressing stick if the sides display some light grooving after you've
applied the diamond. You should be able to steady the diamond on the
wheel guard adequately to achieve acceptable results.

Harold